Listening to: Waves crashing against the shoreline
We've just returned from Jordan and WOW!! I lost count on how many border controls and crossings we took to overland and get there - but was it worth it or what? Somewhat disappointed that we didn't have time to return to Israel and revisit the great country I once lived in - maybe next time...
Anyway, finally arrived in Aqaba and took the two hour journey to Wadi Musa (Valley of Moses) and then on to one of the 'new seven wonders of the world Petra aka 'Rose-Red City'. The Nabateans (desert tribes) sculpted this amazing city hidden from the rest of the world from towering rock walls of multi-coloured sandstone. This ancient city is found via the Siq a canyon-like passageway of amazing rock and while the Treasury, Petra's most famous monument is where most people stand in awe, I have to say the Siq was pretty damn impressive all by itself. Don't get me wrong the first glimpse of the Treasury is very impressive and amazing but the Siq was particularly special. The colours in the rock, how the light played with shadow and colour and because we were fortunate enough to spend most of the half hour walk it took us (too many photo stops) we had it pretty much to ourselves which made it even more special. The magick of the silence, or the echoing of voices up ahead, or the galloping of horses hooves from behind as horse and carriage came tumbling through the narrow canyon. Loved it, loved it, loved it!!
Once inside the site there is so much to see and do it's not possible to see all in one day. You are able to purchase a 1, 2 or 3 day pass - the latter is practically how many days you need to see everything provided you are fit. Since we only had one day to explore we stuck to the main sights: the royal tombs, street of facades, the roman style theatre, to name a few. We had the best day and our clothes full of Petra sandstone and dust were testament to a day of walking, climbing and exploring Petras' ancient city.
Jordan was an unplanned spur of the moment excursion and what an adventure and lovely surprise it turned out to be. There is sooooo' much to see and do in Jordan, three days is nowhere enough time to explore this amazing country. We stayed in a very basic backpacker hostel in Wadi Musa but it felt more like a homestay as the hospitality of the owners exceeded anything I'd expect from any groovee, chilled out backpacker haunt. It was as though we were in their home - well I guess we were really, a home with a lot of bedrooms :) We were made so welcome and we had a traditional Jordanian meal cooked for all of us on the second night of our stay (about 12 all up) in the dining room followed by chatting and drinking tea in the living room with travellers from all over the globe - just fabulous!! Ooooh, did I mention how cold it was - very high up in the mountains - 1100m above sea level. So it's official I'm totally in love with the Middle East and its people and will return time and time again. Now, if only my books would sell...
On our return to Egypt we thought in our wisdom that we would treat ourselves to a semi-upmarket hotel in Nuweiba before returning to Dahab. When we finally made it off the ferry from Aqaba and through Immigration and bartered a reasonable price for cab to take us to chosen luxury we found it closed, desolate and empty!! It was like a ghost town, eerie, abandoned, dust collecting all over the place, tables turned upside down, pool empty and one lone security guard informing us that it was no more and to continue further up the road after we'd already wandered the empty corridors for at least ten minutes as it was all open to the world except for tourists. There were some hotels open for business but pretty dead - not much happening and very expensive for not much luxury. So in the end we concluded Bohemian, backpacker heaven of Dahab was the place to be and caught a mini bus back for the 1 1/2 hour drive as we'd long missed the last public bus back.
Aaah, home. It seriously feels like home, welcomed back by all the Bedouins with their happy, smiley faces and hugs - so warm and welcoming. What's not to love about this place? We're currently overlooking the turquoise waters of the Gulf of Aqaba which is pretty hard to beat from anywhere I've visited in the world including Australia!!
The days are coming to an end and while you read this post it's already Xmas day in Australia. It is Xmas Eve for us and tomorrow we will celebrate Xmas in the desert at a Wadi with the Bedouins!! How good is that?
Right now I feel very thankful to be part of this amazing culture and spending time with such beautiful people. There is a great sense of sadness too upon the imminent end to this journey. Boxing day is onwards to Cairo before our journey home...Might be my last post for awhile, so until then Merry Xmas and a Happy New Year to you all and may all things magickal come your way inshallah.
Midnight rambler wishing you Salaam Alaykum!!
Thursday, December 25, 2008
Wednesday, December 17, 2008
Contemplation, Celebration & some of life's footprints...
Left: Crysta Right: Magicka
Listening to: Like Drawing Blood - Goyte
It feels like the rapid descent to the end of December which means the end of this awesome trip!! Lots of things to think about upon our return - priorities in life etc and how to go about making subtle or not so subtle changes to move into a more authentic life :)
Missing Mum, (no pix of Mum on me) Magicka & Crysta like crazy.
It must have something to do with being away (our first real OS holiday in ten years) and stopping. Having time to think, reflect, feel. How much of our life is lived on automatic pilot that we don't stop and find the stillness to just sit with thought - not necessarily grieve, but more remember and rejoice in their lives whether they are still with us or departed?
It's coming up to Mum's 10th anniversary on the 22nd of this month. It's been a surreal time for me as my subconcious has been playing tricks on me by giving me thought patterns about Mum in the present tense eg: Must tell Mum that when I get home, or Mum will laugh so hard when I tell her this... then the reality hits me. The crazy thing is I am all too well aware that she's not here doh, but for a nanosecond or two my mind tricks me into thinking it so - and the same goes for Magicka & Crysta. Has anyone else experienced this? Of course I miss Mitzi but in a different way as I know from regular reports from home that she is well and happy.
I'm glad we're spending Mum's anniversary and Xmas in Egypt - it's actually nice to be immersed in a completely different culture who don't celerbrate Christmas as we do. No jolly fat men in red suits,no Xmas trees or lights or decorations, no crazy last minute shopping to where you can't breathe from the suffocating crowds. It makes for a nice change :)
Seventeen years ago I spent Xmas in Israel which was amazing to experience the complete absence of it. This year will be in Egypt and besides some festivities from the Christian community, it will be very low key - a nice quiet reflective moment. As Mum was never fond of Xmas either, being in this part of the world at this time somehow brings my link to her even closer.
While I feel sad and contemplative, Iwill be rejoicing and celebrating the memory of Mum, and my kidz life in a magical setting. The Sinai. A rugged land of dry desert mountains that shifts and changes in colour by the rays of the morning and evening sun. A land known throughout history for its prophets and nomads. It is this I relate. It is this I know my mother relates which is possibly why I'm missing her so much. If I stop and listen hard enough I think I'll find I don't need to miss her as she's already here :)
Midnight rambler wishing you all Salaam alukum (peace be upon you)...
Wednesday, December 10, 2008
Celebrations and sadness...
Listening to: Bongos playing in the bazaar
We're celebrating Eid at the moment. All very festive and it may be about as festive we get here in Dahab which suits us just fine :) The place is booked out with locals from all over Egypt celebrating their Muslim holiday and feast - festival of sacrifice. While it's not something that appeals to me as a vegetarian the purpose and belief behind the practise is one of sharing, love and community. So this is a good thing and the spirit here is delightful.
We made a decision and cancelled Thailand. We have plans to explore the Sinai further and visit Petra in Jordan and perhaps revisit Israel. So Xmas it is, in the Middle East - we are looking forward to it being very low key and laid back. Just loving the pace of life here and my head spins thinking about the chaos of Xmas back home :)
Dave had a wonderful time out with the Bedouins but he says he won't be trading in Mickey (his horse) for a camel anytime soon as he had rather a sore bum and thighs LOL. He enjoyed the Oasis, the three pools and the hospitality of the Bedouins. He's been loving the snorkelling right next door to where we are staying at Eel garden and further afield the islands . I lie in the sun and relax. Snorkelling sounds like hard work LOL. He said the coral shelf is amazing with some fantastic fish, not to mention Moray eels, puffer fish, sea urchins which kinda freaked him out a little. Once he got past the coral shelf the whole thing drops away into the depths of the ocean opening up to live coral of all brilliant and spectacular colour with fishies and other things (all beings uncertain) hiding beneath the coral and ocean floor. Each time he goes out he returns with a huge grin on his face so he's loving it. Me...I'm still trying to get it but then I'm not a water baby.
I'm feeling sad today for we found out that 'Foxy lady' died three days ago. We were wondering where she was and I feared that something awful had happened. It indeed had. She was poisoned and by the time the Vet came it was too late. Apparently, this is the governments way of keeping the street dog numbers down except they don't bother to inform anyone so the pets end up being a target also. Apparently, quite a few dogs/pets died in the town also. It's just sooooo' sad. Foxy Lady (real name Nancy - well no, her name is the Arabic version of Nancy which I can't remember) was a gorgeous, lovely girl. She left behind several young pups who are being hand-reared by the Bedouin boys from Sheikh Salem House.
We have more to plan for the rest of our Middle Eastern trip so had better go and do some research.
Midnight rambler signing off - ma' salaama...
We're celebrating Eid at the moment. All very festive and it may be about as festive we get here in Dahab which suits us just fine :) The place is booked out with locals from all over Egypt celebrating their Muslim holiday and feast - festival of sacrifice. While it's not something that appeals to me as a vegetarian the purpose and belief behind the practise is one of sharing, love and community. So this is a good thing and the spirit here is delightful.
We made a decision and cancelled Thailand. We have plans to explore the Sinai further and visit Petra in Jordan and perhaps revisit Israel. So Xmas it is, in the Middle East - we are looking forward to it being very low key and laid back. Just loving the pace of life here and my head spins thinking about the chaos of Xmas back home :)
Dave had a wonderful time out with the Bedouins but he says he won't be trading in Mickey (his horse) for a camel anytime soon as he had rather a sore bum and thighs LOL. He enjoyed the Oasis, the three pools and the hospitality of the Bedouins. He's been loving the snorkelling right next door to where we are staying at Eel garden and further afield the islands . I lie in the sun and relax. Snorkelling sounds like hard work LOL. He said the coral shelf is amazing with some fantastic fish, not to mention Moray eels, puffer fish, sea urchins which kinda freaked him out a little. Once he got past the coral shelf the whole thing drops away into the depths of the ocean opening up to live coral of all brilliant and spectacular colour with fishies and other things (all beings uncertain) hiding beneath the coral and ocean floor. Each time he goes out he returns with a huge grin on his face so he's loving it. Me...I'm still trying to get it but then I'm not a water baby.
I'm feeling sad today for we found out that 'Foxy lady' died three days ago. We were wondering where she was and I feared that something awful had happened. It indeed had. She was poisoned and by the time the Vet came it was too late. Apparently, this is the governments way of keeping the street dog numbers down except they don't bother to inform anyone so the pets end up being a target also. Apparently, quite a few dogs/pets died in the town also. It's just sooooo' sad. Foxy Lady (real name Nancy - well no, her name is the Arabic version of Nancy which I can't remember) was a gorgeous, lovely girl. She left behind several young pups who are being hand-reared by the Bedouin boys from Sheikh Salem House.
We have more to plan for the rest of our Middle Eastern trip so had better go and do some research.
Midnight rambler signing off - ma' salaama...
Thursday, December 4, 2008
Sparkling ocean and clear skies...
Listening to: the sound of the ocean
Our Dahab days of clear water, sunny clear skies and smiling faces are coming to an end :( In hindsight I wished we'd booked for longer. Maybe we can still reschedule our flights - but Egypt Scare - oops I mean Air, is a little dodgy and never seems to have vacant seats but we can try. Still waiting to hear back from our travel agent to see if we can change our Thailand plans slightly, which would give us a bit more time for things to hopefully settle down. We feel that some of our days in Dahab have been wasted due to our concern with Thailand and looking at other options as it was only yesterday the airport cleared and we're still be warned by Australian officials not to go there, but the airlines or travel insurance don't quite see it that way...
Dave is off on a snorkelling and camel ride expedition into the Wadi's of the Sinai with a Bedouin guide, Ibrahim. He is expected to be gone all day and I'm very keen to catch up on all his adventures. I'm still full of the flu - that he gave me!! so am going to lie in the sun for awhile and read my book.
Oh, and there is this adorable dog that hangs out with us, I've nicknamed her 'Foxy lady' coz she has the face of a fox and she is ever sooooo' cute :)
Midnight rambler wandering off into the desertscape....
Our Dahab days of clear water, sunny clear skies and smiling faces are coming to an end :( In hindsight I wished we'd booked for longer. Maybe we can still reschedule our flights - but Egypt Scare - oops I mean Air, is a little dodgy and never seems to have vacant seats but we can try. Still waiting to hear back from our travel agent to see if we can change our Thailand plans slightly, which would give us a bit more time for things to hopefully settle down. We feel that some of our days in Dahab have been wasted due to our concern with Thailand and looking at other options as it was only yesterday the airport cleared and we're still be warned by Australian officials not to go there, but the airlines or travel insurance don't quite see it that way...
Dave is off on a snorkelling and camel ride expedition into the Wadi's of the Sinai with a Bedouin guide, Ibrahim. He is expected to be gone all day and I'm very keen to catch up on all his adventures. I'm still full of the flu - that he gave me!! so am going to lie in the sun for awhile and read my book.
Oh, and there is this adorable dog that hangs out with us, I've nicknamed her 'Foxy lady' coz she has the face of a fox and she is ever sooooo' cute :)
Midnight rambler wandering off into the desertscape....
Tuesday, December 2, 2008
Uncertainty...
Listening to: A cat crying
With Thailand's civil unrest we are left wondering what to do? However, we are grateful that we are not currently caught up in it. We are pretty much wasting today trying to figure out where to go from here. Do we reschedule all flights? cancel them? stay here? Shit!! We are supposed to be in Bangkok next Tuesday and while it may all be over by then - what if it isn't and we are being advised by officials not to travel anywhere in Thailand. So...I'm off to look for a decent coffee in a cafe by the ocean in a sunny spot and ponder our dilemma...
Ciao
With Thailand's civil unrest we are left wondering what to do? However, we are grateful that we are not currently caught up in it. We are pretty much wasting today trying to figure out where to go from here. Do we reschedule all flights? cancel them? stay here? Shit!! We are supposed to be in Bangkok next Tuesday and while it may all be over by then - what if it isn't and we are being advised by officials not to travel anywhere in Thailand. So...I'm off to look for a decent coffee in a cafe by the ocean in a sunny spot and ponder our dilemma...
Ciao
Sunday, November 30, 2008
Furry friends...
Listening to: Bedouin Musicians on the beach
Our first night settling into our room relaxing over a chocolate bar :) we discover a visitor as this little nose pokes out from beneath the fridge. A very cute field mouse. Herding him/her outside to freedom isn't quite so simple as the little cutie darts, and hops, and scurries slipping on the tiles, and hides behind furniture.
Eventually we have success as he finds the doorway to freedom, and we're left with a sense of achievement knowing we helped the little guy out :)
Our first night settling into our room relaxing over a chocolate bar :) we discover a visitor as this little nose pokes out from beneath the fridge. A very cute field mouse. Herding him/her outside to freedom isn't quite so simple as the little cutie darts, and hops, and scurries slipping on the tiles, and hides behind furniture.
Eventually we have success as he finds the doorway to freedom, and we're left with a sense of achievement knowing we helped the little guy out :)
Dahab, Bedouins & Desert sand...
Listening to: The sound of bongos and the ocean
Here at last in the Gulf of Aqaba. Heaven! Our room is right at the ocean's door - quite literally. What a view, the ocean an emerald green and indigo blue with the stark beauty of barren, pinkish mountains that surround the Red Sea coast as the backdrop. And what a sound listening to the ocean - perfect to fall asleep and wake up to.
We're staying in Assalah at the far end of this Bedouin village. It's extremely quiet, peaceful and relaxing. Masbat is the hub, quite busy and very different from my last visit with clubs, live music, hassle to buy and massive amount of dive shops. Aah, everything must change hey? Mashraba is further south and was once non-existent which is home to very upmarket hotels and resorts for richer people than us :)
What was once a huge stretch of sand, basic camps with mattresses on cement floors, no power or hot water and camels lazing on the beach alongside travellers on deck chairs is now home to a paved boardwalk, better class hotels, a severe lack of camels due to them being prohibited on the beach, and a fairly large absence of Bedouins who have been pushed out by tourism development and the Nile Valley people. There are some local establishments such as Sheikh Salem House (where we are staying) that only employ Bedouins to help support the local community.
Despite the changes it's still a fantastic place to be and the perfect place to chill and I think if we did this at the beginning of our trip the rest of our itinerary would be cancelled LOL.
The one thing that hasn't changed is the abundance of cats!! Cats and more cats!! CATS RULE quite literally LOL.
Midnight rambler looking for a decent cup of coffee...
Here at last in the Gulf of Aqaba. Heaven! Our room is right at the ocean's door - quite literally. What a view, the ocean an emerald green and indigo blue with the stark beauty of barren, pinkish mountains that surround the Red Sea coast as the backdrop. And what a sound listening to the ocean - perfect to fall asleep and wake up to.
We're staying in Assalah at the far end of this Bedouin village. It's extremely quiet, peaceful and relaxing. Masbat is the hub, quite busy and very different from my last visit with clubs, live music, hassle to buy and massive amount of dive shops. Aah, everything must change hey? Mashraba is further south and was once non-existent which is home to very upmarket hotels and resorts for richer people than us :)
What was once a huge stretch of sand, basic camps with mattresses on cement floors, no power or hot water and camels lazing on the beach alongside travellers on deck chairs is now home to a paved boardwalk, better class hotels, a severe lack of camels due to them being prohibited on the beach, and a fairly large absence of Bedouins who have been pushed out by tourism development and the Nile Valley people. There are some local establishments such as Sheikh Salem House (where we are staying) that only employ Bedouins to help support the local community.
Despite the changes it's still a fantastic place to be and the perfect place to chill and I think if we did this at the beginning of our trip the rest of our itinerary would be cancelled LOL.
The one thing that hasn't changed is the abundance of cats!! Cats and more cats!! CATS RULE quite literally LOL.
Midnight rambler looking for a decent cup of coffee...
Friday, November 28, 2008
Kings, Queens and Gods...
Listening to: Children laughing and yelling
So far so good our tour bus arrives at 7.50am but it's full to overflowing, and small and my knees are up around my chest. These vans are poorly designed, hot and incredibly uncomfortable. The driver is a maniac (not unusual in Egypt) as he swerves to avoid people, other cars, bicycles - beeps his horn continually (special on road communication that only the Egyptians understand - as each beep has a different tone and sound depending how they hit the horn) the vehicle hits every bump in the road and with no seat belts it's a little more than uncomfortable by now.
First stop is 'Colossi of Memnon'. Interestingly these faceless statues stand 18m high and while they appear giants standing all on their lonesome, they were once quite small as part of the largest temple ever built in Egypt for Amenhotep III (my man) and is thought to be even larger than Karnak! WOW!! Unimaginable hey?
Next stop is Valley of the Queens, 75 tombs but we only saw two. Tomb of Titi and can't remember the other - some king? buried in the wrong place I reckon.
By the time we reach the temple of Hatshepsut (she was pretty cool) set within the rugged limestone cliffs rising 300m above the desert plain - I'm over it! Not over the beauty and magnificence, but over the tour. Yeah, yeah - I know I'm repeating myself and such a whinger but it's getting hot (intensely so) and I'm tired of being squished and yelled at 'yallah, yallah' when all I want to do is wander and be free to explore to my timetable which is at least two hours longer than they want. You're lucky if you get 50 min anywhere!!
The main interest of this tour is the Valley of the Kings but these days it's too costly and complicated to do independently, unlike the last time I visited although I wouldn't want to repeat the donkey journey I took across rugged desert plains in the scorching heat!!
Next we visit a pitiful Alabaster factory (which we reckon is mostly resin) boring and rather uninteresting.
Final stop - what we've been waiting all day for - Valley of the Kings. I alwayz wanted to see King Tut's tomb and on last visit it was 'closed for restoration' - you can imagine my disappointment after such a long journey trudging the rocky desert hills on donkey back and foot (coz I refused to ride mine up the hills - poor little thing) so this time I was pretty keen to finally see it but alas...it wasn't included in the already steep admission - an extra $35 AUD to see and apparently there isn't much to see as all his treasures are at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. So I visited Ramses IX and Ramses IV (exactly the same tombs as last time LOL) without realising until I was in them. Ramses IV being the most impressive with detailed hieroglyphics, gorgeous colours still apparent in the artwork and the red granite sarcophagus (which is huuuuuge, the largest in the valley and empty) Ramses IV is in the Egyptian Museum in Cairo.
By 1.30pm we are gladly back in the bus for the hair raising 1 hour trip back to Luxor. I know I probably sound as though it wasn't much fun and I'm a total whinger - it was fun and awesome and no regrets here, I just don't like cramped mini buses or organised tours for obvious reasons. But hey 'cest la vie'. Valley of the Kings is quite an impressive place and I love the logic behind the Ancient Egyptians having the West bank for the dead and the East Bank for the living all based on the cycle of the sun. As the sun rises in the East, this should be for the living and because it sets in the West, for the dead. Their belief in the afterlife and their journey to the underworld is fascinating, their journey is about returning to their bodies, hence mummification and the sun cycles represent rebirth with the rising and setting of the sun. This is a simplified version that I hope hasn't been lost in translation :)
After a rest and madly packing we spend our last night at the Oasis Cafe yet again. The Irish Manager, Lorraine and Egyptian George are gorgeous and a heap of laughs. I break my NO COFFEE code for the first time in 23 days and have the best tasting coffee in a very long time and that includes OZ!! A special import from Cairo which I must find out the name of :) Since then I'm now on a constant search for the elusive, gorgeous tasting elixir of the Oasis coffee, but so far have had no luck :(
Luxor has been a huge highlight, one city that has changed greatly and this time for the better. It's a city you either love or hate. We love it and are very keen to return :)
Midnight rambler signing off - ma' salaama
So far so good our tour bus arrives at 7.50am but it's full to overflowing, and small and my knees are up around my chest. These vans are poorly designed, hot and incredibly uncomfortable. The driver is a maniac (not unusual in Egypt) as he swerves to avoid people, other cars, bicycles - beeps his horn continually (special on road communication that only the Egyptians understand - as each beep has a different tone and sound depending how they hit the horn) the vehicle hits every bump in the road and with no seat belts it's a little more than uncomfortable by now.
First stop is 'Colossi of Memnon'. Interestingly these faceless statues stand 18m high and while they appear giants standing all on their lonesome, they were once quite small as part of the largest temple ever built in Egypt for Amenhotep III (my man) and is thought to be even larger than Karnak! WOW!! Unimaginable hey?
Next stop is Valley of the Queens, 75 tombs but we only saw two. Tomb of Titi and can't remember the other - some king? buried in the wrong place I reckon.
By the time we reach the temple of Hatshepsut (she was pretty cool) set within the rugged limestone cliffs rising 300m above the desert plain - I'm over it! Not over the beauty and magnificence, but over the tour. Yeah, yeah - I know I'm repeating myself and such a whinger but it's getting hot (intensely so) and I'm tired of being squished and yelled at 'yallah, yallah' when all I want to do is wander and be free to explore to my timetable which is at least two hours longer than they want. You're lucky if you get 50 min anywhere!!
The main interest of this tour is the Valley of the Kings but these days it's too costly and complicated to do independently, unlike the last time I visited although I wouldn't want to repeat the donkey journey I took across rugged desert plains in the scorching heat!!
Next we visit a pitiful Alabaster factory (which we reckon is mostly resin) boring and rather uninteresting.
Final stop - what we've been waiting all day for - Valley of the Kings. I alwayz wanted to see King Tut's tomb and on last visit it was 'closed for restoration' - you can imagine my disappointment after such a long journey trudging the rocky desert hills on donkey back and foot (coz I refused to ride mine up the hills - poor little thing) so this time I was pretty keen to finally see it but alas...it wasn't included in the already steep admission - an extra $35 AUD to see and apparently there isn't much to see as all his treasures are at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo. So I visited Ramses IX and Ramses IV (exactly the same tombs as last time LOL) without realising until I was in them. Ramses IV being the most impressive with detailed hieroglyphics, gorgeous colours still apparent in the artwork and the red granite sarcophagus (which is huuuuuge, the largest in the valley and empty) Ramses IV is in the Egyptian Museum in Cairo.
By 1.30pm we are gladly back in the bus for the hair raising 1 hour trip back to Luxor. I know I probably sound as though it wasn't much fun and I'm a total whinger - it was fun and awesome and no regrets here, I just don't like cramped mini buses or organised tours for obvious reasons. But hey 'cest la vie'. Valley of the Kings is quite an impressive place and I love the logic behind the Ancient Egyptians having the West bank for the dead and the East Bank for the living all based on the cycle of the sun. As the sun rises in the East, this should be for the living and because it sets in the West, for the dead. Their belief in the afterlife and their journey to the underworld is fascinating, their journey is about returning to their bodies, hence mummification and the sun cycles represent rebirth with the rising and setting of the sun. This is a simplified version that I hope hasn't been lost in translation :)
After a rest and madly packing we spend our last night at the Oasis Cafe yet again. The Irish Manager, Lorraine and Egyptian George are gorgeous and a heap of laughs. I break my NO COFFEE code for the first time in 23 days and have the best tasting coffee in a very long time and that includes OZ!! A special import from Cairo which I must find out the name of :) Since then I'm now on a constant search for the elusive, gorgeous tasting elixir of the Oasis coffee, but so far have had no luck :(
Luxor has been a huge highlight, one city that has changed greatly and this time for the better. It's a city you either love or hate. We love it and are very keen to return :)
Midnight rambler signing off - ma' salaama
Thursday, November 27, 2008
Strange days...
Listening to: The Muzzein
Today is odd, surreal and strange. Our normal buffet breakfast isn't on, waiters are floundering around at a simple request of toast and tea.
It's now 8.25am and our 7.30 mini bus pick up for the West bank tour hasn't turned up. Two phonecalls later to the tour operator from the nice man at reception via his mobile (we did pay for it) arranged for another pick up that still never came - so we re-scheduled for tomorrow. It gets phenomenally hot at the sites and there was no way we wanted to go any later than planned. So with a shrug we head for the souqs and have quite a relaxing, pleasant day. Bartering hard, laughing, having fun with the locals and Dave practising being an Egyptian with his groovee head scarf/turban that Mahmoud showed him how to do (I have pix which I shall post on my return).
It's getting to be after 4pm already, so we head back with some of our bargains before returning to Karnak temple for the 6.30pm light and sound show. It's gets very dark, very quickly, very early here. We're moving into winter and cold nights. Although the show is somewhat kitsch and daggy it is brilliant to see the temple lit up at night. Standing among the awesome columns with the moon and stars above listening to the deep, godly voices boom tales and history from a lost civilisation over the loud speakers makes me want to hide in the temple and sleep overnight.
Even more atmospheric at night, I could've lingered so much more but being part of a tour it's all about 'yallah, yallah' (hurry, let's go). That aside, what a lovely night in my fave temple beneath the stars finished yet again by another visit to our fave haunt the Oasis Cafe where we met George (Egyptian) and what a gorgeous dynamo he is.
We went to sleep smiling as we are increasingly seduced by the lure of Luxor :)
Today is odd, surreal and strange. Our normal buffet breakfast isn't on, waiters are floundering around at a simple request of toast and tea.
It's now 8.25am and our 7.30 mini bus pick up for the West bank tour hasn't turned up. Two phonecalls later to the tour operator from the nice man at reception via his mobile (we did pay for it) arranged for another pick up that still never came - so we re-scheduled for tomorrow. It gets phenomenally hot at the sites and there was no way we wanted to go any later than planned. So with a shrug we head for the souqs and have quite a relaxing, pleasant day. Bartering hard, laughing, having fun with the locals and Dave practising being an Egyptian with his groovee head scarf/turban that Mahmoud showed him how to do (I have pix which I shall post on my return).
It's getting to be after 4pm already, so we head back with some of our bargains before returning to Karnak temple for the 6.30pm light and sound show. It's gets very dark, very quickly, very early here. We're moving into winter and cold nights. Although the show is somewhat kitsch and daggy it is brilliant to see the temple lit up at night. Standing among the awesome columns with the moon and stars above listening to the deep, godly voices boom tales and history from a lost civilisation over the loud speakers makes me want to hide in the temple and sleep overnight.
Even more atmospheric at night, I could've lingered so much more but being part of a tour it's all about 'yallah, yallah' (hurry, let's go). That aside, what a lovely night in my fave temple beneath the stars finished yet again by another visit to our fave haunt the Oasis Cafe where we met George (Egyptian) and what a gorgeous dynamo he is.
We went to sleep smiling as we are increasingly seduced by the lure of Luxor :)
Wednesday, November 26, 2008
Temples of Karnak
Listening to: The sound of horses hooves against cement
Karnak temple dedicated to the Theban gods and pharaohs covers 9 hectares of land, large enough to contain 10 cathedrals.
The temple of Amun is massive in its dimensions and is the largest temple with columns in the world. So large it can fit the Notre-Dame in its entirety and so vast it could cover half of Manhatten in New York or so I've read and I certainly believe it...
The entrance to this fantastic temple is met by an avenue of ram headed sphinxes, sacred to Amun which meets the largest pylon 113 metres wide and 15 metres thick (this gives you an idea of its enormity) and dates back to the Ptolemy dynasty.
The courtyard is dominated by a gi-normous column 21m high and then there's the Great Hypostyle Hall which contains 134 columns 23m high (enough space to contain Rome's St Peter's and London's St Paul's cathedral). This is my favourite spot, there is something very magickal about being amongst these columns, the way the light dances around and on them creating shadows and a mood so atmospheric full of mystery and wonder. The awesomeness of this amazing temple is almost too awe defying that words can never explain the magick and wonder of this place. It truly has to be seen to be believed. No photograph or video does it real justice.
Amelia Edwards, 19th century writer and artist who journeyed the Nile had this to say:
It's a place that has been written about and often painted, but of which no writing and no art can convey more than a dwarfed and pallid impression. The scale is too vast, the effect too tremendous, the sense of one's own dumbness and littleness, an incapacity, too complete and crushing...
This is purely a snippet of the wonder of Karnak. I could be here all night raving about its awesomeness and still never be able to define the massiveness and how glorious this temple truly is or even how it makes me feel. If any of you wonderful readers out there visit Egypt, and if you do nothing else - you must visit Karnak and then you too will be blown away and be as awestruck and lost for words as I am...
Midnight rambler saying ma' salaama....
Karnak temple dedicated to the Theban gods and pharaohs covers 9 hectares of land, large enough to contain 10 cathedrals.
The temple of Amun is massive in its dimensions and is the largest temple with columns in the world. So large it can fit the Notre-Dame in its entirety and so vast it could cover half of Manhatten in New York or so I've read and I certainly believe it...
The entrance to this fantastic temple is met by an avenue of ram headed sphinxes, sacred to Amun which meets the largest pylon 113 metres wide and 15 metres thick (this gives you an idea of its enormity) and dates back to the Ptolemy dynasty.
The courtyard is dominated by a gi-normous column 21m high and then there's the Great Hypostyle Hall which contains 134 columns 23m high (enough space to contain Rome's St Peter's and London's St Paul's cathedral). This is my favourite spot, there is something very magickal about being amongst these columns, the way the light dances around and on them creating shadows and a mood so atmospheric full of mystery and wonder. The awesomeness of this amazing temple is almost too awe defying that words can never explain the magick and wonder of this place. It truly has to be seen to be believed. No photograph or video does it real justice.
Amelia Edwards, 19th century writer and artist who journeyed the Nile had this to say:
It's a place that has been written about and often painted, but of which no writing and no art can convey more than a dwarfed and pallid impression. The scale is too vast, the effect too tremendous, the sense of one's own dumbness and littleness, an incapacity, too complete and crushing...
This is purely a snippet of the wonder of Karnak. I could be here all night raving about its awesomeness and still never be able to define the massiveness and how glorious this temple truly is or even how it makes me feel. If any of you wonderful readers out there visit Egypt, and if you do nothing else - you must visit Karnak and then you too will be blown away and be as awestruck and lost for words as I am...
Midnight rambler saying ma' salaama....
Tuesday, November 25, 2008
LUXOR - Museum's & The Oasis
Listening to: Alas I cannot swim - Laura Marling
Can't keep us down for long, feeling still under the weather but much improved so a visit to Luxor Museum seemed a nice, restful relaxing thing to do! What a blast! It's just wonderful. Gorgeous statues of Tuthmosis III, Amenhotep III, (truly amazing and I imagine extremely handsome) in fact the more I think about him and see his pictures here and there, I find myself falling in love with Amenhotep :) Then of course there is Sekhemet (you'd love it Jason) a black and gold wooden head of the cow deity Mehit Weret found in Tutankamen's tomb, two royal mummies, Ahmore (founder of the 18th dynasty) and Ramses I (founder of the 19th dynasty and father of Seti I). They are truly amazing and displayed in glass cabinets in a very dark room without their wrappings - very atmospheric...
The multimedia displays of papyrus being harvested was fascinating for me as I just love the stuff. This all may sound very Erik Von Daniken but honestly when you look at these structures and the detail in each piece, hieroglyphics etc, it's hard not to believe that these masterpieces were created by a very superiour being and technology beyond anything imaginable or fathomable at that time. We're talking 1400 BC and I haven't seen anything in my lifetime replicate what the Ancient Egyptians achieved. The precise measurements, perfectly straight lines, carvings deeply etched into stone that has survived over centuries and stone like granite, one of the hardest stones around. I'm in total awe of this amazing civilisation, one that's still being unravelled and never really explained.
A perfect day, topped off with lunch at the gorgeous Oasis cafe, a renovated 1930s building with high ceilings, tiled floors, with smoking and non smoking dining rooms. Slightly exy prices for Egypt but brilliant food and fabulous staff :)
I LOVE EGYPT!!
Sunday, November 23, 2008
Part IV - Esna Lock - Luxor
Day 2 - cont'd:
Listening to: The hum of the engine
There's like a million ships that pull into Esna and depending on how busy it is will depend on how long we wait. It's been a fabulous day up on deck watching life on the Nile go by. It's all over too quick really. We're very happy that our trip hasn't been the nightmare we imagined. Obviously those reviews are based on our standards and not Egyptians which we are well acquainted with.
So for us it's been pleasant. Basic but very pleasant. Once our ship got the go ahead to move into the lock, out came our cameras and we did walkabout of the deck capturing the excitement and fandangled method of passing through the lock. Yelling hellos and waving to fellow passengers on other ships and the locals yelling from the banks of the Nile was fun :)
I don't know all the details and technicalities of it but basically the lock is part of a very long bridge/wall that spans the width of the Nile and restricts the flow of water so it can be used for agriculture, electricity etc.
The water level is higher on one side of the lock and lower on the other so ships coming from Luxor have to be raised up to the height of the river and from Edfu lowered before the ships can pass through a specially built cement enclosure.
This is a time consuming and congested exercise due to the traffic of ships travelling to and from Luxor. Quite exciting!! especially as our ship hits the side, we crash and bang against the cement, Police are blowing their whistles madly and I have crazy video footage to prove it LOL.
We cruise into Luxor just as night falls and dock for the night. We have our last evening of Egyptian dance which includes a very, slightly nervous belly dancer whose moves were awkward and clumsy with the ugliest outfit ever! The highlight was the male dancer in his very colourful costume who spins and spins and spins. I was dizzy just watching him. He dances with baskets and then weaves layers of his costume up and down and turns it into an umbrealla that he spins above his head all the while he's still spinning and spinning. Getting dizzy yet? I've no idea what the dance is called and am endeavouring to find out.
Unfortunately, Dave missed out due to 'The Pharoah's curse' (King Tut's tummy). I managed some video footage so he didn't miss out completely.
We're now in Luxor, on land (although it feels as though the floor is moving) in one of the beter hotels we've stayed in since leaving Australia. We had the best shower since home. It's amazing what you appreciate when you don't have it :)
We're both now struck down with 'The Pharoah's curse' which has required anti-biotics (we suspect the buffet dinners on the ship as they're a risky way to eat in undeveloped countries) so this hotel is a nice place to rest and regain our strength for all the amazing sites yet to come!!
Midnight rambler saying 'ma' is salaama'....
Listening to: The hum of the engine
There's like a million ships that pull into Esna and depending on how busy it is will depend on how long we wait. It's been a fabulous day up on deck watching life on the Nile go by. It's all over too quick really. We're very happy that our trip hasn't been the nightmare we imagined. Obviously those reviews are based on our standards and not Egyptians which we are well acquainted with.
So for us it's been pleasant. Basic but very pleasant. Once our ship got the go ahead to move into the lock, out came our cameras and we did walkabout of the deck capturing the excitement and fandangled method of passing through the lock. Yelling hellos and waving to fellow passengers on other ships and the locals yelling from the banks of the Nile was fun :)
I don't know all the details and technicalities of it but basically the lock is part of a very long bridge/wall that spans the width of the Nile and restricts the flow of water so it can be used for agriculture, electricity etc.
The water level is higher on one side of the lock and lower on the other so ships coming from Luxor have to be raised up to the height of the river and from Edfu lowered before the ships can pass through a specially built cement enclosure.
This is a time consuming and congested exercise due to the traffic of ships travelling to and from Luxor. Quite exciting!! especially as our ship hits the side, we crash and bang against the cement, Police are blowing their whistles madly and I have crazy video footage to prove it LOL.
We cruise into Luxor just as night falls and dock for the night. We have our last evening of Egyptian dance which includes a very, slightly nervous belly dancer whose moves were awkward and clumsy with the ugliest outfit ever! The highlight was the male dancer in his very colourful costume who spins and spins and spins. I was dizzy just watching him. He dances with baskets and then weaves layers of his costume up and down and turns it into an umbrealla that he spins above his head all the while he's still spinning and spinning. Getting dizzy yet? I've no idea what the dance is called and am endeavouring to find out.
Unfortunately, Dave missed out due to 'The Pharoah's curse' (King Tut's tummy). I managed some video footage so he didn't miss out completely.
We're now in Luxor, on land (although it feels as though the floor is moving) in one of the beter hotels we've stayed in since leaving Australia. We had the best shower since home. It's amazing what you appreciate when you don't have it :)
We're both now struck down with 'The Pharoah's curse' which has required anti-biotics (we suspect the buffet dinners on the ship as they're a risky way to eat in undeveloped countries) so this hotel is a nice place to rest and regain our strength for all the amazing sites yet to come!!
Midnight rambler saying 'ma' is salaama'....
Part III - Edfu - Esna
Day 2:
Listening to: The sound of table tennis
We had plans to visit Edfu temple at 6.30am this morning, but decided against it. I was very cold through the night and hadn't slept for the noise of the engine of our boat and the boat moored next door. Actually glad we didnt as we found out that while Edfu is an amazing awesome place, by the time you got there, queued and fought the hassle of the touts, you had 30 minutes to see such a massive site with approximately 2,000 other people. Did I mention why we hate tour groups already?
Maybe next time - when we can do it by ourselves, although moving into Luxor is getting harder to travel independently due to having to travel in Police escorted convoys. We have two armed guards on our boat (every boat) one up front and one down back. It's all supposedly for our protection due to an Islamist insurgency in the mid 90's where more than a thousand deaths occured. Mostly police, but tourists were caught up in the attacks also. It can severely disrupt travel in this region and time at sites is restricted due to the convoys etc. We're inclined to think it makes us more of a target as any terrorists will know when a whole heap of foreigners will be at any given time. But for now we just have to roll with it and hope it doesn't interfere with our travel plans too much.
We're sitting on the deck, soaking up the sun and the Nile while writing in our diaries and really it's just magick!! And while it's only a 2 1/2 star boat, it's a step up from where we've been staying and we're cruising the Nile for crissake!! Can't get much better than that. It's basically a felucca with more space and facilities which makes for a much more pleasant trip :)
Listening to: The sound of table tennis
We had plans to visit Edfu temple at 6.30am this morning, but decided against it. I was very cold through the night and hadn't slept for the noise of the engine of our boat and the boat moored next door. Actually glad we didnt as we found out that while Edfu is an amazing awesome place, by the time you got there, queued and fought the hassle of the touts, you had 30 minutes to see such a massive site with approximately 2,000 other people. Did I mention why we hate tour groups already?
Maybe next time - when we can do it by ourselves, although moving into Luxor is getting harder to travel independently due to having to travel in Police escorted convoys. We have two armed guards on our boat (every boat) one up front and one down back. It's all supposedly for our protection due to an Islamist insurgency in the mid 90's where more than a thousand deaths occured. Mostly police, but tourists were caught up in the attacks also. It can severely disrupt travel in this region and time at sites is restricted due to the convoys etc. We're inclined to think it makes us more of a target as any terrorists will know when a whole heap of foreigners will be at any given time. But for now we just have to roll with it and hope it doesn't interfere with our travel plans too much.
We're sitting on the deck, soaking up the sun and the Nile while writing in our diaries and really it's just magick!! And while it's only a 2 1/2 star boat, it's a step up from where we've been staying and we're cruising the Nile for crissake!! Can't get much better than that. It's basically a felucca with more space and facilities which makes for a much more pleasant trip :)
Saturday, November 22, 2008
Part II - Kom Ombo
Listening to: The water lapping
Night is falling rapidly when we arrive at Kom Ombo and I don't realise that I've visited this temple before until we get there. Excitement fills me as I drag Dave from one amazing hieroglyphic pillar to another. It's crowded with tour groups - urgghh!! It's lit up beautifully and it just looks delightful. Our pix are a bit shaky due to low light so we video most of it which just looks terrific and really captures the atmosphere of the place.
The temple dedicates itself to the crocodile god Sobek and Haroeris meaning 'Horus the Elder'. There are remains of 18th dynasty structures but most of the temple dates from Ptolemaic times. It stands on a promontory right on the river and is truly spectacular and very exciting to see it at night this time around. It was all very rushed unfortunately as our boat was departing in 40 minutes.
After dinner which isn't too bad considering I get to eat more things other than eggs, cheese and bread was a 'galabiyya' (man's robe party) clearly organised by the tour groups as we've been left completely out of the loop. We hooked up with other independent travellers and watched the shenanigans from the bar. It all looked very lame, so don't think we missed out.
Dave & I went on deck around midnight to view the nile before bed - it was freezing but amazing...
Night is falling rapidly when we arrive at Kom Ombo and I don't realise that I've visited this temple before until we get there. Excitement fills me as I drag Dave from one amazing hieroglyphic pillar to another. It's crowded with tour groups - urgghh!! It's lit up beautifully and it just looks delightful. Our pix are a bit shaky due to low light so we video most of it which just looks terrific and really captures the atmosphere of the place.
The temple dedicates itself to the crocodile god Sobek and Haroeris meaning 'Horus the Elder'. There are remains of 18th dynasty structures but most of the temple dates from Ptolemaic times. It stands on a promontory right on the river and is truly spectacular and very exciting to see it at night this time around. It was all very rushed unfortunately as our boat was departing in 40 minutes.
After dinner which isn't too bad considering I get to eat more things other than eggs, cheese and bread was a 'galabiyya' (man's robe party) clearly organised by the tour groups as we've been left completely out of the loop. We hooked up with other independent travellers and watched the shenanigans from the bar. It all looked very lame, so don't think we missed out.
Dave & I went on deck around midnight to view the nile before bed - it was freezing but amazing...
Aswan, Kom Ombo & Edfu
Day One:
Part I - Aswan - Kom Ombo
This morning is filled with all sorts of trepidation about our intended cruise. We try not to give it too much thought except for positive energy as we pack and wait...and wait... for our tour operator to pick us up. Have we been ripped off? Has he taken our money and not coming back?
Finally, Monty arrives (some relief). We cab it to the far end of the Nile and rows of ships we never knew existed. Made three different stops looking for our boat (not a good sign). Finally it comes into view 'Song of Egypt' - Marquis II. Dread fills me. This is the very boat we read awful reviews on.
Upon arrival at reception they take our passports and keeps them until Luxor - Police requirement apparently, but I don't feel good about this! I'm very protective of my passport - I want it back!! We are shown to our cabin, it is below deck. Instantly, I know this is no good. Cabin 125 smells of diesel and has a view of concrete (the cement bank of the Nile). I want to vomit from the fumes. It feels like a prison cell and claustrophobia consumes me :(
I ask for another room. Reception tell me 'boat is complete'. I insist there must be another room up a level. 'Boat is complete' (going by the amount of keys left at reception I don't believe the ship is full. I know we are cheap add ons). This conversation goes back and forth like this until I tell him the smell of fumes are making me sick and I think by the tone of my voice he gets the message and shows us another room. Cabin 232, one deck above is not as smelly but it's right next to the engine/generator and it's as noisy as all hell, but the smell is better and not so claustrophobic as we have a view of the Nile. We are much happier and take it regardless of his objections.
The Marquis II is quoted as being 5 star - it barely makes the grade of 2 1/2 by our standards. Bedspread reeks of cigarettes, the ceiling in bathroom is lifting and we can see the electrics, taps leak, TV doesn't work (not that we're interested anyway) fridge is not clean but then we're only storing our supply of drinking water. The carpet is stained from water and smells of must. However, it's up 1/2 a grade or two on our hotel accommodation, so we're not complaining just telling it how it is. We weren't expecting 5 star luxury and it beats the trawler we thought it might be :)
It has a very small pool on deck but I don't care as it's not hot enough to swim. The deck is comfortable and relaxing as we finally begin our sail at 2.30pm...
Part I - Aswan - Kom Ombo
This morning is filled with all sorts of trepidation about our intended cruise. We try not to give it too much thought except for positive energy as we pack and wait...and wait... for our tour operator to pick us up. Have we been ripped off? Has he taken our money and not coming back?
Finally, Monty arrives (some relief). We cab it to the far end of the Nile and rows of ships we never knew existed. Made three different stops looking for our boat (not a good sign). Finally it comes into view 'Song of Egypt' - Marquis II. Dread fills me. This is the very boat we read awful reviews on.
Upon arrival at reception they take our passports and keeps them until Luxor - Police requirement apparently, but I don't feel good about this! I'm very protective of my passport - I want it back!! We are shown to our cabin, it is below deck. Instantly, I know this is no good. Cabin 125 smells of diesel and has a view of concrete (the cement bank of the Nile). I want to vomit from the fumes. It feels like a prison cell and claustrophobia consumes me :(
I ask for another room. Reception tell me 'boat is complete'. I insist there must be another room up a level. 'Boat is complete' (going by the amount of keys left at reception I don't believe the ship is full. I know we are cheap add ons). This conversation goes back and forth like this until I tell him the smell of fumes are making me sick and I think by the tone of my voice he gets the message and shows us another room. Cabin 232, one deck above is not as smelly but it's right next to the engine/generator and it's as noisy as all hell, but the smell is better and not so claustrophobic as we have a view of the Nile. We are much happier and take it regardless of his objections.
The Marquis II is quoted as being 5 star - it barely makes the grade of 2 1/2 by our standards. Bedspread reeks of cigarettes, the ceiling in bathroom is lifting and we can see the electrics, taps leak, TV doesn't work (not that we're interested anyway) fridge is not clean but then we're only storing our supply of drinking water. The carpet is stained from water and smells of must. However, it's up 1/2 a grade or two on our hotel accommodation, so we're not complaining just telling it how it is. We weren't expecting 5 star luxury and it beats the trawler we thought it might be :)
It has a very small pool on deck but I don't care as it's not hot enough to swim. The deck is comfortable and relaxing as we finally begin our sail at 2.30pm...
Friday, November 21, 2008
Abu Simbel - Philae
Dave had a total blast at Abu Simbel but says I would've hated the mini bus as it was full to overflowing and very cramped with no leg room. Even he was getting restless leg syndrome and a sore back. So while I missed out on this colossal monument it would've trashed me by the sounds of things.
Dave has some great pix and he adored Philae and the Temple of Isis as much as I did on my last visit. He was a very tired vegemite when he returned at 4pm - A long day but a good day!
We visited the famous Aswan souk after dinner and had a great time. Met some wonderful people, made some friends and exchanged emails, bought some scarves and bartered hard - I do it well :) While on one hand you have the hassle from touts driving you to despair and just when you think you can't take anymore or you think you've forgotten how to smile, you find yourself smiling and laughing as you are greeted so warmly with some exceptional people - not to mention some new travelling friends also from places such as Canada, Cuba and France...
Independent travel is such a wonderful way to travel. You experience things so differently when not with a tour group. You also have the bad with the good but you always meet some amazing people along the way. This is what it's all about and Dave and I are totally in our element :) We're the travelling bums we've alwayz been and LOVING IT!!
Dave has some great pix and he adored Philae and the Temple of Isis as much as I did on my last visit. He was a very tired vegemite when he returned at 4pm - A long day but a good day!
We visited the famous Aswan souk after dinner and had a great time. Met some wonderful people, made some friends and exchanged emails, bought some scarves and bartered hard - I do it well :) While on one hand you have the hassle from touts driving you to despair and just when you think you can't take anymore or you think you've forgotten how to smile, you find yourself smiling and laughing as you are greeted so warmly with some exceptional people - not to mention some new travelling friends also from places such as Canada, Cuba and France...
Independent travel is such a wonderful way to travel. You experience things so differently when not with a tour group. You also have the bad with the good but you always meet some amazing people along the way. This is what it's all about and Dave and I are totally in our element :) We're the travelling bums we've alwayz been and LOVING IT!!
Aswan and beyond...
Listening to: Jackson - Jenny Morris & Michael Hutchence
Well Dave and I have done something that we never thought we'd do (it must be the heat scrambling our brain) and I must say I'm now quite anxious about it all. I've heard the horror stories so I will have to trust the Universe that it won't be one for us!
What is it you ask? We're doing a two night, three day cruise to Luxor *yikes*. We had plans to catch the train to Luxor but have since decided to give the cruise a shot since we've not done anything like this before ever, anywhere!! By the time we take off days accommodation and daily expenses in Luxor the cruise didn't cost that much more...but...what are we getting? We're told a 5 star ship but then again...it could be a trawler!!
We are taking two days off our Luxor leg though which is a bit of a concern as there's so much to do there. Again we will have to be ruthless about what we see (we can't see everything!)
Does anyone have any experience with this - I'm thinking of you Jason. Wish us luck - we just might need it. We depart tomorrow morning for Luxor. Aaahh, shit, I spent three days on a felucca from Aswan to Luxor last time. How bad can it be????
Midnight rambler seeing you in Luxor....(fingers & toes crossed)
Well Dave and I have done something that we never thought we'd do (it must be the heat scrambling our brain) and I must say I'm now quite anxious about it all. I've heard the horror stories so I will have to trust the Universe that it won't be one for us!
What is it you ask? We're doing a two night, three day cruise to Luxor *yikes*. We had plans to catch the train to Luxor but have since decided to give the cruise a shot since we've not done anything like this before ever, anywhere!! By the time we take off days accommodation and daily expenses in Luxor the cruise didn't cost that much more...but...what are we getting? We're told a 5 star ship but then again...it could be a trawler!!
We are taking two days off our Luxor leg though which is a bit of a concern as there's so much to do there. Again we will have to be ruthless about what we see (we can't see everything!)
Does anyone have any experience with this - I'm thinking of you Jason. Wish us luck - we just might need it. We depart tomorrow morning for Luxor. Aaahh, shit, I spent three days on a felucca from Aswan to Luxor last time. How bad can it be????
Midnight rambler seeing you in Luxor....(fingers & toes crossed)
Police Convoy...
Listening to: Le Bienheureux - Guts
Dave is currently at Abu Simbel, and later visiting Philae and the High Dam. He left this morning at 3.15am to meet the Police convoy leaving at 4am (the only way foreigners are allowed to travel from Aswan onwards) unless on a train, boat or felucca. I feel a little envious and sad that I'm not with him as I believe Abu Simbel will be very awe inspiring. Philae and the Temple of Isis is amazing (at least I've seen that) and am glad Dave is visiting that also. I chose not to see Abu Simbel on my last visit for similar reasons as today. When we arrived in Aswan 3 days ago I really wanted to go as I felt I'd been given a second chance to see this amazing place. BUT with the big coaches only available to the Cruise tour groups (this is what I wanted) we were stuck with a small mini bus. My dodgy knee is not coping - Have I mentioned how many stairs are in Aswan? Just to get to any restaurant requires a hike up and down a million steps as they're all floating on the Nile, which is quite a descent below street level. So the idea of spending 3 hours there and 3 hours back in a small mini van and a screaming knee, I've arrived at the same decision as my first visit. It's such a long way to travel for only 1 - 2 hours at the site if you're not feeling quite up to it.
I will have to settle for being awe inspired by Dave's photos and his recount of his experience upon his return this arvo!!
We have a million pix and will post some of them when we return to OZ probably on flickr.
This is Midnight rambler signing off and looking forward to hearing all about Dave's grand adventure...
Dave is currently at Abu Simbel, and later visiting Philae and the High Dam. He left this morning at 3.15am to meet the Police convoy leaving at 4am (the only way foreigners are allowed to travel from Aswan onwards) unless on a train, boat or felucca. I feel a little envious and sad that I'm not with him as I believe Abu Simbel will be very awe inspiring. Philae and the Temple of Isis is amazing (at least I've seen that) and am glad Dave is visiting that also. I chose not to see Abu Simbel on my last visit for similar reasons as today. When we arrived in Aswan 3 days ago I really wanted to go as I felt I'd been given a second chance to see this amazing place. BUT with the big coaches only available to the Cruise tour groups (this is what I wanted) we were stuck with a small mini bus. My dodgy knee is not coping - Have I mentioned how many stairs are in Aswan? Just to get to any restaurant requires a hike up and down a million steps as they're all floating on the Nile, which is quite a descent below street level. So the idea of spending 3 hours there and 3 hours back in a small mini van and a screaming knee, I've arrived at the same decision as my first visit. It's such a long way to travel for only 1 - 2 hours at the site if you're not feeling quite up to it.
I will have to settle for being awe inspired by Dave's photos and his recount of his experience upon his return this arvo!!
We have a million pix and will post some of them when we return to OZ probably on flickr.
This is Midnight rambler signing off and looking forward to hearing all about Dave's grand adventure...
Thursday, November 20, 2008
Nubia, Elephants & Temples...
Listening to: Little Less Conversation - Elvis Presley
I lie - there are no elephants but there is Elephantine Island in Nubia on the west bank of the Nile. I won't go into the hassle it took to find the local ferry across but finally we made it. Walked through part of a Nubian village (very poor and dirty) before we arrived at the Aswan Museum (aah another change) 30 EGP admission and of course can't see the ruins that I so leisurely spent hours pondering 17 years ago without seeing or at least paying for the Museum first! It's nothing to write home about and the ruins of Abu aren't as accessible and some aren't even there anymore.
Some german dude (archeologist - his name escapes me for now) built the Museum in 1997 and excavated but really only to reveal the remains of mud brick huts. It looks like a work in progress and there are NO ENTRY signs everywhere. Antiquity Police follow you around telling you some history and then wanting baksheesh. My calm, patient meter is rising into the danger zone (something I don't like) so instead of saying something like, 'F**k off and leave me alone' I walk in the opposite direction to what they suggest and don't make eye contact and pretty soon they get the message (note to self - learn the arabic word for 'piss off'). Horrible I know but we just want some peace to explore.
From here you can see the Old Cataract Hotel, famous for the Agatha Christie movie 'Death on the Nile'. It's an amazing view of the Nile from here as alwayz and feluccas drift along with the breeze or just sit if there is none. It's peaceful and quiet here at last but it's hot! I mean hot, excessively hot!! It's not humid, but the heat is intense with no breeze or shade!! I'm so struggling to breathe in Aswan (it must be the heat). I swear it's over 40c in the shade. Hotter than anything I've experienced in Queensland (even Dave admitted he too was struggling) except for perhaps Cairns and of course Asia. And this is Autumn!!
We're standing on the remains of the Temple of Khunm and the Temple of Satet. They have tastefully reconstructed an area from tablets and Katouches found and finished the drawings and heiroglpyhics in pencil to give you an idea what it once would've looked like.
Comparing is not always a good thing and I'm accepting that tourism has taken a hold of this country 17 years on, but I still can't help but notice the differences and so far not really many improvements. But having said that, Dave is a first timer to Egypt and is loving it, so I am grateful every day for being here and seeing the new with the old and familiar, but I'm equally grateful that I visited this amazing country before it was too overrun with tourism.
I lie - there are no elephants but there is Elephantine Island in Nubia on the west bank of the Nile. I won't go into the hassle it took to find the local ferry across but finally we made it. Walked through part of a Nubian village (very poor and dirty) before we arrived at the Aswan Museum (aah another change) 30 EGP admission and of course can't see the ruins that I so leisurely spent hours pondering 17 years ago without seeing or at least paying for the Museum first! It's nothing to write home about and the ruins of Abu aren't as accessible and some aren't even there anymore.
Some german dude (archeologist - his name escapes me for now) built the Museum in 1997 and excavated but really only to reveal the remains of mud brick huts. It looks like a work in progress and there are NO ENTRY signs everywhere. Antiquity Police follow you around telling you some history and then wanting baksheesh. My calm, patient meter is rising into the danger zone (something I don't like) so instead of saying something like, 'F**k off and leave me alone' I walk in the opposite direction to what they suggest and don't make eye contact and pretty soon they get the message (note to self - learn the arabic word for 'piss off'). Horrible I know but we just want some peace to explore.
From here you can see the Old Cataract Hotel, famous for the Agatha Christie movie 'Death on the Nile'. It's an amazing view of the Nile from here as alwayz and feluccas drift along with the breeze or just sit if there is none. It's peaceful and quiet here at last but it's hot! I mean hot, excessively hot!! It's not humid, but the heat is intense with no breeze or shade!! I'm so struggling to breathe in Aswan (it must be the heat). I swear it's over 40c in the shade. Hotter than anything I've experienced in Queensland (even Dave admitted he too was struggling) except for perhaps Cairns and of course Asia. And this is Autumn!!
We're standing on the remains of the Temple of Khunm and the Temple of Satet. They have tastefully reconstructed an area from tablets and Katouches found and finished the drawings and heiroglpyhics in pencil to give you an idea what it once would've looked like.
Comparing is not always a good thing and I'm accepting that tourism has taken a hold of this country 17 years on, but I still can't help but notice the differences and so far not really many improvements. But having said that, Dave is a first timer to Egypt and is loving it, so I am grateful every day for being here and seeing the new with the old and familiar, but I'm equally grateful that I visited this amazing country before it was too overrun with tourism.
Wednesday, November 19, 2008
Desert, Sand and the Aswan Moon...
Listening to: The Muezzin
All those weeks of researching and booking accommodation over the net has been a total waste of time and energy - good learining curve though. We stayed one night at our chosen hostel in Aswan and had to hit the streets again to find somewhere else. The quality of the next hostel is no better but the last place had no lift and 8 flights of stairs (70 in total) - my dodgy knee was really beginning to scream after walking up and down a few times. I need it to hang in there as there are so many sights to see that require a lot of walking. Aah the joys of budget travelling hey? The new place is just as basic and grotty but has only 12 stairs and still a view of the Nile :)
And what a beautiful, magickal spot on the Nile it is. Sitting at the Aswan Moon Restaurant (still a much loved and favourite haunt) kicking back with a cool drink, the sandy dunes of Nubia just across from the calm, tranquil waters of the Nile. This would have to be the most spectacular spot.
Aswan with a population of just over 1 million makes this such an easy going, relaxing place after Cairo. It's definitely a step back in time. Besides more ships cruising the Nile (just over 250) not much has changed since '91. It's a surreal experience for me as we sit at the Aswan Moon watching the serenity of life on the Nile go by.
Even though there are so many things to see and do here, the easy, slower pace is contagious and the idea of rushing here and there to do this and that doesn't sit well with the atmosphere of Aswan. We seem to be running out of time already before we head to Luxor, so we just have to decide what the highlights will be for us. I plan to revisit some places and aim to visit things I missed the first time around.
So look for the next instalment once we've been somewhere and done something as for now we're just living in the moment and taking each day as it comes and being as spontaneous as possible.
It's soooooo' good to be travelling again and we're both loving Egypt! Alwayz a winner for me but it's so great that Dave is loving it too! And the culture and its people are just magick!! (once you get past the horse and felucca touts and the hassle LOL)
This is Midnight rambler seeing you somewhere down the Nile...
PS: Feel free to comment on anything posted here - it will be nice to hear from home occassionally :)
All those weeks of researching and booking accommodation over the net has been a total waste of time and energy - good learining curve though. We stayed one night at our chosen hostel in Aswan and had to hit the streets again to find somewhere else. The quality of the next hostel is no better but the last place had no lift and 8 flights of stairs (70 in total) - my dodgy knee was really beginning to scream after walking up and down a few times. I need it to hang in there as there are so many sights to see that require a lot of walking. Aah the joys of budget travelling hey? The new place is just as basic and grotty but has only 12 stairs and still a view of the Nile :)
And what a beautiful, magickal spot on the Nile it is. Sitting at the Aswan Moon Restaurant (still a much loved and favourite haunt) kicking back with a cool drink, the sandy dunes of Nubia just across from the calm, tranquil waters of the Nile. This would have to be the most spectacular spot.
Aswan with a population of just over 1 million makes this such an easy going, relaxing place after Cairo. It's definitely a step back in time. Besides more ships cruising the Nile (just over 250) not much has changed since '91. It's a surreal experience for me as we sit at the Aswan Moon watching the serenity of life on the Nile go by.
Even though there are so many things to see and do here, the easy, slower pace is contagious and the idea of rushing here and there to do this and that doesn't sit well with the atmosphere of Aswan. We seem to be running out of time already before we head to Luxor, so we just have to decide what the highlights will be for us. I plan to revisit some places and aim to visit things I missed the first time around.
So look for the next instalment once we've been somewhere and done something as for now we're just living in the moment and taking each day as it comes and being as spontaneous as possible.
It's soooooo' good to be travelling again and we're both loving Egypt! Alwayz a winner for me but it's so great that Dave is loving it too! And the culture and its people are just magick!! (once you get past the horse and felucca touts and the hassle LOL)
This is Midnight rambler seeing you somewhere down the Nile...
PS: Feel free to comment on anything posted here - it will be nice to hear from home occassionally :)
Monday, November 17, 2008
City of the Dead & Islamic Cairo
Listening to: Still 104.2 - Nile FM
Yesterday we had a mission to visit the Northern Cemetery (City of the Dead) the subject of my second book and Al-Azhar Mosque and then perhaps a tea in a fine establishment known as the Mahfouz Coffee shop in the Khan. Well like all best laid plans it didn't work out that way. Cabbie didn't understand our destination or English and our Arabic was crap! He dropped us somewhere he insisted was the right place and it may well have been Al Qarafa aka City of the Dead aptly named as the living dwell among the dead. Approximately 50,000 homeless Carienes live among the tombs. Anyway, it wasn't the section I wanted to explore so we headed to the 'Khan El Kalili Bazaar'. Bizarre might be a better word for it...
Dave in his wisdom and great map reading skills NOT! took us completely in the opposite direction we wanted to go even though my intuition said otherwise. Of course he didn't listen to me because he had the map! Maps - I always follow my nose and usually end up in the right place. Anyway, let the man have his way since he insisted I was completely wrong! 'Trust me' he cried, 'I will take you to Mahfouz coffee shop.'
Instead we ended up in the middle of this Bazaar which quickly became claustrophobic as we were all vying for the same space. After finally figuring out the meaning of horn blowing throughout the streets of Cairo - I soon learn't the meaning of 'HISSSSSSS, hiss, hiss' in the narrow laneway of the bazaar.
Yesterday we had a mission to visit the Northern Cemetery (City of the Dead) the subject of my second book and Al-Azhar Mosque and then perhaps a tea in a fine establishment known as the Mahfouz Coffee shop in the Khan. Well like all best laid plans it didn't work out that way. Cabbie didn't understand our destination or English and our Arabic was crap! He dropped us somewhere he insisted was the right place and it may well have been Al Qarafa aka City of the Dead aptly named as the living dwell among the dead. Approximately 50,000 homeless Carienes live among the tombs. Anyway, it wasn't the section I wanted to explore so we headed to the 'Khan El Kalili Bazaar'. Bizarre might be a better word for it...
Dave in his wisdom and great map reading skills NOT! took us completely in the opposite direction we wanted to go even though my intuition said otherwise. Of course he didn't listen to me because he had the map! Maps - I always follow my nose and usually end up in the right place. Anyway, let the man have his way since he insisted I was completely wrong! 'Trust me' he cried, 'I will take you to Mahfouz coffee shop.'
Instead we ended up in the middle of this Bazaar which quickly became claustrophobic as we were all vying for the same space. After finally figuring out the meaning of horn blowing throughout the streets of Cairo - I soon learn't the meaning of 'HISSSSSSS, hiss, hiss' in the narrow laneway of the bazaar.
- Get out of the way NOW, man, woman or child coming through with very heavy things on their head;
- Bicycles;
- Trucks backing up;
- Very large sack trucks more like a Haitian cart filled to overflowing with goods.
Dave and I were pushed, shoved and jostled every which way in this congested part of the Khan lined with carts selling shoes, belts, toys, enormous bras and disgusting looking lingerie for what seemed forever before we could find a way out. There's laneway after laneway and the Khan stretches for miles. Most of the women wore the black abaya's much more reminiscent of my earlier visit. When I read in the Lonely Planet guide about the amazing contrast between downtown Cairo and Islamic Cairo I wondered what they meant as downtown Cairo is not modern! But after what we experienced here in the Khan - Ahem...I stand corrected - Downtown Cairo is very modern!
We ended up full circle and right back where we started from so this time I took control. After three and a half hours of walking, being jostled and shoved. Jumped out at to buy! 'come eat, shishkebab, pizza' or 'how can I take your money from you?' I was extremely pissed off, tired and hungry so I followed my nose and finally found Mafouz Coffee shop. YAY!! Exhausted, needing air con and a good cuppa - but aahhh....I was greeted by the lovely, very princely looking Arabic waiter and told 'be open again in one hour.' ONE HOUR!! Aaarrghhhh - too much! Guess who was not my favourite person right in that moment!
We sat outside the mosque too tired to move and ate a small bag of nuts watching bus load after bus load of tourists fill the cafes and Khan to even more chocker proportions. Thank god we are independent travellers. We always thought when we got older we'd travel that way, tours etc, easier and all that stuff, but we just can't do it! Once a backpacker - obviously always a backpacker!
Once a bit of calm had washed over us and our sugar levels had risen a little we negotiated a price for a cab back to the Talaat Harb.
It was truly a BAZAAR - BIZARRE DAY!! and we didn't buy a thing!! Maybe another visit on our return in December without the stupid map and in a better frame of mind, it just might be fun :)
Midnight Rambler signing off...preparing for our overnight train to Aswan...
Coffee, tea and cigarettes...
Listening to: 104.2 - Nile FM
It's been TEN DAYS since I had a cup of coffee. Ten days without coffee, milk or biscuits or any food really!! Okay, a slight exaggeration - I'm eating a little, but not much - need to lose weight anyhow. I'm weary after getting so ill in Bangkok which I think was viral gastro probably from the Airline food or some sick dodgy passenger on the plane!
Besides felafel and pita bread there's not much for a vego to eat anyway. Salads are a no go zone! I'd rather go without than get food poisoning, my last and not forgotten experience in Cairo - determined not to let history repeat...
Where was I? Oh yeah - Coffee! Some caffiene withdrawals in Bangkok but then I was pretty sick - so who knows? Rather enjoying black Earl Grey tea when I can get it. Dave however, is still on the coffee and taking more food risks than I, but then he has a cast iron gut!!
Everyone here smokes - nothing unusual about that, everything is the same, same. Whether it be the Middle East or Asia. The cafes, restaurants and hotels can get rather unpleasant though from the smoky, nicotine haze. What is it about the third world cultures and cigarette smoking? This goes for the travellers too which seems to go hand in hand. Besides the social aspect I'm not entirely sure why it still continues to be a popular past time? Ideas anyone?
It's been TEN DAYS since I had a cup of coffee. Ten days without coffee, milk or biscuits or any food really!! Okay, a slight exaggeration - I'm eating a little, but not much - need to lose weight anyhow. I'm weary after getting so ill in Bangkok which I think was viral gastro probably from the Airline food or some sick dodgy passenger on the plane!
Besides felafel and pita bread there's not much for a vego to eat anyway. Salads are a no go zone! I'd rather go without than get food poisoning, my last and not forgotten experience in Cairo - determined not to let history repeat...
Where was I? Oh yeah - Coffee! Some caffiene withdrawals in Bangkok but then I was pretty sick - so who knows? Rather enjoying black Earl Grey tea when I can get it. Dave however, is still on the coffee and taking more food risks than I, but then he has a cast iron gut!!
Everyone here smokes - nothing unusual about that, everything is the same, same. Whether it be the Middle East or Asia. The cafes, restaurants and hotels can get rather unpleasant though from the smoky, nicotine haze. What is it about the third world cultures and cigarette smoking? This goes for the travellers too which seems to go hand in hand. Besides the social aspect I'm not entirely sure why it still continues to be a popular past time? Ideas anyone?
Sunday, November 16, 2008
GIZA
Listening to: Keep the Faith - Toni Childs
Hmmm...I have very mixed feelings about my experience yesterday. Dave had a different and hopefully better experience than I as he had nothing to compare it with, although he shared a lot of my sentiments. Sometimes returning to old and favourite haunts disappoint.
Where do I begin? Take in a deep breath - this is difficult to write for I feel quite emotional about it all *gulp*. Expect to be hassled upon arrival (this is nothing new) for camel and horse rides to and around the pyramids. In fact it begins in the village that precedes the site. If you take a cab, expect to be stopped by touts trying to sell camel and horse rides as the distance between pyramids is so great etc and so on. I stopped them in their tracks when I said, 'NO - I've been here before.' The driver apologised and slowly our vehicle crept through the throng of people, cars, horses etc - it was also a weekend which meant not only shit loads of tourist buses to contend with but locals were out for the day too! The latter being far nicer than these big stinking buses that not just come to the entrance anymore, but all the way up and behind every pyramid.
The climb up past the amazing Sphinx that is literally decaying from the inside due to pollution and rising ground water is spectacular and again I'm so very glad we've seen it before it maybe will be no more as efforts to restore it has just sped up the decay!
Anyway, where was I? Yep, I remember. The climb up was alwayz a pain in the arse with the touts selling miniature pyramids, postcards etc and the hassle to ride camels but competing with not just the crowds, but cars, buses, horses and carts, and camels was almost too much. I veered right at the Great Pyramid of Khufu the oldest and largest (146m high - now reduced by 9m due to 46 windy centuries) and the teems of buses and cars just never stopped. So I stopped. And I cried. I couldn't believe what tourism has done to this ancient site. I know tourism is important - I'm not knocking that for a minute BUT really what's wrong with parking at the entrance, like I swear they used to (I will have to look into that) and climbing up yourself, or giving the money to the camel drivers and horse riders who will gladly take you where you want to go. After all - they need to make a living and feed their families somehow and I believe the hordes of tourist buses are actually taking that away from them. It's much tougher on them which also makes them hassle a lot more than they used to. They now have police on camel back to stop them annoying the tourists and razor wire around certain parts of the site - it has got that bad. I blame the tour companies!! Or the Government, oh shit I don't know who to blame but someone is at fault here!!
Once I got over my disappointment we headed up to the second largest pyramid of Khafre 136m high. This is were Dave and I managed to walk away from the madness and step into more of the desert plains. The buses now mere dots in the distance although the blasting of horns did somehow take away the wonder and spiritual atmosphere these amazing structures would've once had.
We caught great shots through the lens of our camera of 'camel caravans' sweeping through the sand dunes in the distance, horses being herded back to the stables, the perfect opportunity for Dave to take some video footage and as a bonus the herder put on a show by rearing up and doing a high ho silver before galloping off after the herd, all of this topped off by the sun setting behind the smallest pyramid Menkaure 62m high.
Now it was time to take the trek back down the steep hill and take in the enormity of the day and ponder the wonder that has been here for 4000 years. Ponder the placement of stones precise to the millimetre, the numerological significance of the structures dimensions and it's not hard to believe the different theories that the Pyramids were constructed by angels, the devil or aliens. For me, I'll stick with the alien theory because until you've seen these awesome structures in real life it's only then that you yourself will wonder about its unearthly origins...
Midnight rambler signing off...
Hmmm...I have very mixed feelings about my experience yesterday. Dave had a different and hopefully better experience than I as he had nothing to compare it with, although he shared a lot of my sentiments. Sometimes returning to old and favourite haunts disappoint.
Where do I begin? Take in a deep breath - this is difficult to write for I feel quite emotional about it all *gulp*. Expect to be hassled upon arrival (this is nothing new) for camel and horse rides to and around the pyramids. In fact it begins in the village that precedes the site. If you take a cab, expect to be stopped by touts trying to sell camel and horse rides as the distance between pyramids is so great etc and so on. I stopped them in their tracks when I said, 'NO - I've been here before.' The driver apologised and slowly our vehicle crept through the throng of people, cars, horses etc - it was also a weekend which meant not only shit loads of tourist buses to contend with but locals were out for the day too! The latter being far nicer than these big stinking buses that not just come to the entrance anymore, but all the way up and behind every pyramid.
The climb up past the amazing Sphinx that is literally decaying from the inside due to pollution and rising ground water is spectacular and again I'm so very glad we've seen it before it maybe will be no more as efforts to restore it has just sped up the decay!
Anyway, where was I? Yep, I remember. The climb up was alwayz a pain in the arse with the touts selling miniature pyramids, postcards etc and the hassle to ride camels but competing with not just the crowds, but cars, buses, horses and carts, and camels was almost too much. I veered right at the Great Pyramid of Khufu the oldest and largest (146m high - now reduced by 9m due to 46 windy centuries) and the teems of buses and cars just never stopped. So I stopped. And I cried. I couldn't believe what tourism has done to this ancient site. I know tourism is important - I'm not knocking that for a minute BUT really what's wrong with parking at the entrance, like I swear they used to (I will have to look into that) and climbing up yourself, or giving the money to the camel drivers and horse riders who will gladly take you where you want to go. After all - they need to make a living and feed their families somehow and I believe the hordes of tourist buses are actually taking that away from them. It's much tougher on them which also makes them hassle a lot more than they used to. They now have police on camel back to stop them annoying the tourists and razor wire around certain parts of the site - it has got that bad. I blame the tour companies!! Or the Government, oh shit I don't know who to blame but someone is at fault here!!
Once I got over my disappointment we headed up to the second largest pyramid of Khafre 136m high. This is were Dave and I managed to walk away from the madness and step into more of the desert plains. The buses now mere dots in the distance although the blasting of horns did somehow take away the wonder and spiritual atmosphere these amazing structures would've once had.
We caught great shots through the lens of our camera of 'camel caravans' sweeping through the sand dunes in the distance, horses being herded back to the stables, the perfect opportunity for Dave to take some video footage and as a bonus the herder put on a show by rearing up and doing a high ho silver before galloping off after the herd, all of this topped off by the sun setting behind the smallest pyramid Menkaure 62m high.
Now it was time to take the trek back down the steep hill and take in the enormity of the day and ponder the wonder that has been here for 4000 years. Ponder the placement of stones precise to the millimetre, the numerological significance of the structures dimensions and it's not hard to believe the different theories that the Pyramids were constructed by angels, the devil or aliens. For me, I'll stick with the alien theory because until you've seen these awesome structures in real life it's only then that you yourself will wonder about its unearthly origins...
Midnight rambler signing off...
EGYPTIAN MUSEUM
Listening to: Cruel Guards - The Panics
Thursday we made our way to one of the world's finest and most important museums. The entry process has definitely changed since I was last here due to an over zealous thief in 1996 who stowed away overnight and stole some treasures (why didn't I think of that). Now you queue for a metal detector and have all bags etc x-rayed. Then queue for a ticket, then queue again for a final X-ray check. Guard almost hyper-ventilated and went into a blind panic when his screen detected scissors in Dave's bag - Ooops!! Suddenly, we were surrounded by armed guards speaking in Arabic but once it was revealed they were part of our First Aid kit, they smiled and were more than happy to let us through except for the X-ray man - phew!!
The museum is impossibly large with too much to see in one day. I remember watching an episode of Getaway and the presenter said, 'if you spent a minute on every item on display it would take you six months to see everything!' - I would believe it.
We headed straight for the Royal Mummies Hall, a new addition and an extra 100 EGP on top of the 50 EGP admission. All up about $100 AUD for the two of us but it's worth every cent!! The Mummy hall houses the remains of some of Egypt's pharaohs and queens from the 17th to 21st dynasties, 1650 to 945 BC. It could be a frightening experience for some, especially children, but for us and particularly me there was nothing disturbing about it. I'm in total awe of this ancient practise of mummification, their culture and knowledge that no-one has ever been able to replicate. I've had to commit the images to memory as all photography is banned. The Theban King Segenenre II died violently and his wounds are still visible. His twisted arms and smashed skull reflect the violence of his death.
Queen Maatkare lies with her pet baboon still wrapped. It was first believed it may have been her child but scans revealed otherwise.
The one that stands out for me was Seti I, one of the best preserved royal mummies as it was the most life-like and impressive of them all...
KING TUT
The Tutankhamun galleries are just to die for. An impressive array of treasures approx 1700 items. My favourite piece, if one can have a favourite among so many fabulous things was the pharaoh's Lion throne, covered with sheet gold and inlaid with lapis, cornelian and other semi-precious stones. The wooden throne is supported by amazing Lion heads and legs. I was blown away by the exquisite beauty of it. And then of course there's the golden sarcophagus cast in solid gold and weighs 110kg.
Tutankhamun's Death mask is made of solid gold and weighs 11kg. It's stunningly gorgeous and was used to cover the head of the mummy where it lay in a series of 3 sarcophagi. The eyes are made from Obsidian and quartz and the outline of eyes and brows are inlaid with Lapis Lazuli.
We were there for a good four hours and only saw a snippet but happy nonetheless for what we did see. We managed a quick wander around the ground floor before closing and were equally impressed with statues of Sekhemet, Rahotep & Nofret, Hatshepsut, Nefertiti and Ramses II. These are just a taste of how much there is to see. Unfortunately, I couldn't find any statues of my most favourite goddess Bastet, somewhat disappointed, although I did see some mummifed cats.
A Grand Museum of Egypt is planned near the pyramids in Giza somewhere between 2010-2012 and many of the musuem's highlights will be relocated. While the state-of-the-art facility will include climate control, something the present location doesn't have, I think it will be kind of sad to see such an iconic place be moved from Cairo city. I'm very grateful that I've had the opportunity of seeing this place twice and so glad Dave has seen the current Museum which has been an historic landmark since 1902!
Midnight rambler signing off - next instalment Giza...
Thursday we made our way to one of the world's finest and most important museums. The entry process has definitely changed since I was last here due to an over zealous thief in 1996 who stowed away overnight and stole some treasures (why didn't I think of that). Now you queue for a metal detector and have all bags etc x-rayed. Then queue for a ticket, then queue again for a final X-ray check. Guard almost hyper-ventilated and went into a blind panic when his screen detected scissors in Dave's bag - Ooops!! Suddenly, we were surrounded by armed guards speaking in Arabic but once it was revealed they were part of our First Aid kit, they smiled and were more than happy to let us through except for the X-ray man - phew!!
The museum is impossibly large with too much to see in one day. I remember watching an episode of Getaway and the presenter said, 'if you spent a minute on every item on display it would take you six months to see everything!' - I would believe it.
We headed straight for the Royal Mummies Hall, a new addition and an extra 100 EGP on top of the 50 EGP admission. All up about $100 AUD for the two of us but it's worth every cent!! The Mummy hall houses the remains of some of Egypt's pharaohs and queens from the 17th to 21st dynasties, 1650 to 945 BC. It could be a frightening experience for some, especially children, but for us and particularly me there was nothing disturbing about it. I'm in total awe of this ancient practise of mummification, their culture and knowledge that no-one has ever been able to replicate. I've had to commit the images to memory as all photography is banned. The Theban King Segenenre II died violently and his wounds are still visible. His twisted arms and smashed skull reflect the violence of his death.
Queen Maatkare lies with her pet baboon still wrapped. It was first believed it may have been her child but scans revealed otherwise.
The one that stands out for me was Seti I, one of the best preserved royal mummies as it was the most life-like and impressive of them all...
KING TUT
The Tutankhamun galleries are just to die for. An impressive array of treasures approx 1700 items. My favourite piece, if one can have a favourite among so many fabulous things was the pharaoh's Lion throne, covered with sheet gold and inlaid with lapis, cornelian and other semi-precious stones. The wooden throne is supported by amazing Lion heads and legs. I was blown away by the exquisite beauty of it. And then of course there's the golden sarcophagus cast in solid gold and weighs 110kg.
Tutankhamun's Death mask is made of solid gold and weighs 11kg. It's stunningly gorgeous and was used to cover the head of the mummy where it lay in a series of 3 sarcophagi. The eyes are made from Obsidian and quartz and the outline of eyes and brows are inlaid with Lapis Lazuli.
We were there for a good four hours and only saw a snippet but happy nonetheless for what we did see. We managed a quick wander around the ground floor before closing and were equally impressed with statues of Sekhemet, Rahotep & Nofret, Hatshepsut, Nefertiti and Ramses II. These are just a taste of how much there is to see. Unfortunately, I couldn't find any statues of my most favourite goddess Bastet, somewhat disappointed, although I did see some mummifed cats.
A Grand Museum of Egypt is planned near the pyramids in Giza somewhere between 2010-2012 and many of the musuem's highlights will be relocated. While the state-of-the-art facility will include climate control, something the present location doesn't have, I think it will be kind of sad to see such an iconic place be moved from Cairo city. I'm very grateful that I've had the opportunity of seeing this place twice and so glad Dave has seen the current Museum which has been an historic landmark since 1902!
Midnight rambler signing off - next instalment Giza...
Saturday, November 15, 2008
CHANGE...
There's an interesting cultural contrast between the West and Middle East as western influences are creeping into Modern Cairo. Macca's, Pizza Hut and so forth are everywhere, that's no surprise although I don't remember them in '91 certainly not to the degree they are now.
The men, particurlarly young men are very snappy dressers in their faux and/or real designer shoes, jeans and shirts which highlights for me the dagginess of the average Australian male. The women are for the most part stunning and their mix of traditional dress mixed with the west is creative and attractive. Very different from my memories in '91 where most women wore black and black.
Some women still wear the full traditional black abayas, and most of them are very smart with diamantes and sequins, while others wear patterned or brightly coloured hijabs teemed with a trendy shirt and jeans.
Their smiles are infectious and genuine. For all the hassle, touts, cabbies and the constant cry for 'Baksheesh' - whether it's a visit to the public loo or a beggar in the street - Cairo has got under my skin in a good way. I hated it the first time I was here and after some of our earlier experiences this time around I was still feeling the same way. I thought Cairo was going to be a city I would never like but I have to say the atmosphere and its people have finally got to me and make this city worth a visit. Dave & I do pretty well not to be hassled as we are pretty street wise and focussed on where we're going and how to get there even if it means we still get lost LOL. We're also very good at ignoring when we have to. Don't get me wrong, we're not rude (I haven't resorted to any foul language yet!) In fact we've been having some wonderful encounters with perfect strangers, of course most of them have an alterior motive but the key is to keep moving - Alwayz!! Not because it's dangerous (violent crime rate in Cairo is lower than the US & UK) it's just a lot less hassle....
Next instalment the Egyptian Museum...stay tuned...
The men, particurlarly young men are very snappy dressers in their faux and/or real designer shoes, jeans and shirts which highlights for me the dagginess of the average Australian male. The women are for the most part stunning and their mix of traditional dress mixed with the west is creative and attractive. Very different from my memories in '91 where most women wore black and black.
Some women still wear the full traditional black abayas, and most of them are very smart with diamantes and sequins, while others wear patterned or brightly coloured hijabs teemed with a trendy shirt and jeans.
Their smiles are infectious and genuine. For all the hassle, touts, cabbies and the constant cry for 'Baksheesh' - whether it's a visit to the public loo or a beggar in the street - Cairo has got under my skin in a good way. I hated it the first time I was here and after some of our earlier experiences this time around I was still feeling the same way. I thought Cairo was going to be a city I would never like but I have to say the atmosphere and its people have finally got to me and make this city worth a visit. Dave & I do pretty well not to be hassled as we are pretty street wise and focussed on where we're going and how to get there even if it means we still get lost LOL. We're also very good at ignoring when we have to. Don't get me wrong, we're not rude (I haven't resorted to any foul language yet!) In fact we've been having some wonderful encounters with perfect strangers, of course most of them have an alterior motive but the key is to keep moving - Alwayz!! Not because it's dangerous (violent crime rate in Cairo is lower than the US & UK) it's just a lot less hassle....
Next instalment the Egyptian Museum...stay tuned...
A DAY IN THE LIFE...
For anyone who's been to Bangkok and think it's a polluted city - then think again!! Cairo city has a population of 20 million and 2 million cars, most running on diesel, add this to the airborne smoke, soot, dust and liquid droplets from fuel combustion which constantly exceeds WHO standards, it makes up for a very crowded, polluted, dirty city. 20,000 Cariennes die each year from pollution-related disease and 1/2 million suffer from pollution-related respiratory disease each year!
While there have been some changes to Cairo since my visit in '91, the chaos, noise, pollution and squalor have not. It's a city that can be quite disorientating on arrival and can take at least a couple of days to get into the groove. Once you've found your bearings however you're still likely to get lost!!
Crossing the street is at your own risk and arriving the other side alive is alwayz a pleasant surprise :) The Cariennes stop for nothing, not a red light or a cop. Cairo has traffic lights but everyone ignores them and the police do their best to direct traffic and keep the flow going while singing to ipods and texting on mobile phones.
The streets in downtown Cairo are insanely out of control. No car stays within their lane, they drive as fast as they can, flash lights at the poor pedestrians attempting to cross the road. Their horn is used constantly, it has a special language which can mean anything from:
While there have been some changes to Cairo since my visit in '91, the chaos, noise, pollution and squalor have not. It's a city that can be quite disorientating on arrival and can take at least a couple of days to get into the groove. Once you've found your bearings however you're still likely to get lost!!
Crossing the street is at your own risk and arriving the other side alive is alwayz a pleasant surprise :) The Cariennes stop for nothing, not a red light or a cop. Cairo has traffic lights but everyone ignores them and the police do their best to direct traffic and keep the flow going while singing to ipods and texting on mobile phones.
The streets in downtown Cairo are insanely out of control. No car stays within their lane, they drive as fast as they can, flash lights at the poor pedestrians attempting to cross the road. Their horn is used constantly, it has a special language which can mean anything from:
- I'm indicating and coming over into your lane;
- Watch out you're moving into my lane;
- Hurry up and get out of the way;
- Get off the damn road before I run you down!
The streets are hard to manouevre. Between the extremely congested city of millions of people all vying for the same space, there are pot holes, broken glass, rubbish, mangy cats and dogs scavenging for whatever meal they can find, dust piles of crap on almost every corner (imagine when the wind gets up) construction sites with no warning signs, crazy metal things sticking up out of the ground. It's a dangerous maze of potential injury which makes walking the streets tough work, hard to see and breathe through the continual haze of smoke and dust, and an extremely noisy exercise!!!
Oh, and I still haven't worked out whether the streets are lined with parked cars or abandoned cars - that gives you an idea of the condition of most of the vehicles in this city!
More to follow...
HERE AT LAST...
CAIRO - DOWNTOWN
Listening to: To all New Arrivals - Faithless
With two hotels later, we're finally beginning to settle into Cariennes way of life. We are staying in a very basic hotel on the 5th floor of a commercial rundown, almost derelict building in downtown Cairo. Trust me it's a heap better than the first one I'd had us checked into over the internet. We couldn't stay one night!! and we still know how to rough it - is that a good thing? The only way up besides walking a million, filthy, derelict stairs is the elevator - the old fashioned kind, needs two doors to be closed before it will operate except once inside the inner doors can be opened and as it passes empty spaces, a thought crashes through my mind - what if...someone pushed you out? (Hopefully a story idea and not a reality LOL) In between the empty spaces all you see is cement walls and it's as though the wall is moving and not you - quite disconcerting as the elevator makes a steady but rickety climb to the 5th floor. Eeeek!! I've never liked elevators....Next instalment soon...
Listening to: To all New Arrivals - Faithless
With two hotels later, we're finally beginning to settle into Cariennes way of life. We are staying in a very basic hotel on the 5th floor of a commercial rundown, almost derelict building in downtown Cairo. Trust me it's a heap better than the first one I'd had us checked into over the internet. We couldn't stay one night!! and we still know how to rough it - is that a good thing? The only way up besides walking a million, filthy, derelict stairs is the elevator - the old fashioned kind, needs two doors to be closed before it will operate except once inside the inner doors can be opened and as it passes empty spaces, a thought crashes through my mind - what if...someone pushed you out? (Hopefully a story idea and not a reality LOL) In between the empty spaces all you see is cement walls and it's as though the wall is moving and not you - quite disconcerting as the elevator makes a steady but rickety climb to the 5th floor. Eeeek!! I've never liked elevators....Next instalment soon...
Sunday, November 9, 2008
The Journey so far...
Listening to: Summerland - The Herd
Still in Bangkok, where the air smells of rotting food and rubbish, diesel, petrol, exhaust fumes, rice and others?? Where the roads and streets are breaking up and if you lose your footing, you could break a bone or two! Where its hellishly noisy and an assault to the ears when you're nursing a headache!!
Where the smoggy haze hangs over the city like a grey cloak and if you watch long enough you imagine it coming down and suffocating the city in a thick fog - think Stephen King and The Mist and you get the picture.
Where it rains sporadically and heavily - washing away the smell and pollution for just a few minutes to catch your breath then heats the Bangkok air and rising humidity to unbearable temps!!
Where it's incredibly green - date palms dense and jungle like, line the freeways and surround the shantis on the side of the road.
Where it's a land so familiar to me from times travelled before, the 'land of smiles', and 'sawadees'. Where it opens its arms and always welcomes me back.
Ahem...Aren't we supposed to be in Cairo by now - Aah yes we are - but we're not! Take a major dose of Delhi belly (in this case Bangkok) I won't bore you with the gory details but we changed our flights and if all goes to plan, we will be in Cairo on the 11th.
The flight over was friendly and pretty uneventful (just how we like it) but leaving BrisVegas didn't go as smoothly when Dave had most of his toiletries confiscated due to the 3-1-1 ruling. Even though I had prewarned him and shown him the website - for some strange reason he read into it something completely different and thought all was hunky dory! WRONG! He was not a happy chappy and the argument that followed with security who got Dave's back up by his wanky, smart ass comments turned some of our excitement sour :( But that's all behind us now, replenished with dodgy Thai toiletries and a repack of Dave's hand luggage.
The sun is peaking its way through the smog and soon we'll be in for another night of rice (good and bland for the belly).
Ciao for now until the next instalment in Cairo...
Still in Bangkok, where the air smells of rotting food and rubbish, diesel, petrol, exhaust fumes, rice and others?? Where the roads and streets are breaking up and if you lose your footing, you could break a bone or two! Where its hellishly noisy and an assault to the ears when you're nursing a headache!!
Where the smoggy haze hangs over the city like a grey cloak and if you watch long enough you imagine it coming down and suffocating the city in a thick fog - think Stephen King and The Mist and you get the picture.
Where it rains sporadically and heavily - washing away the smell and pollution for just a few minutes to catch your breath then heats the Bangkok air and rising humidity to unbearable temps!!
Where it's incredibly green - date palms dense and jungle like, line the freeways and surround the shantis on the side of the road.
Where it's a land so familiar to me from times travelled before, the 'land of smiles', and 'sawadees'. Where it opens its arms and always welcomes me back.
Ahem...Aren't we supposed to be in Cairo by now - Aah yes we are - but we're not! Take a major dose of Delhi belly (in this case Bangkok) I won't bore you with the gory details but we changed our flights and if all goes to plan, we will be in Cairo on the 11th.
The flight over was friendly and pretty uneventful (just how we like it) but leaving BrisVegas didn't go as smoothly when Dave had most of his toiletries confiscated due to the 3-1-1 ruling. Even though I had prewarned him and shown him the website - for some strange reason he read into it something completely different and thought all was hunky dory! WRONG! He was not a happy chappy and the argument that followed with security who got Dave's back up by his wanky, smart ass comments turned some of our excitement sour :( But that's all behind us now, replenished with dodgy Thai toiletries and a repack of Dave's hand luggage.
The sun is peaking its way through the smog and soon we'll be in for another night of rice (good and bland for the belly).
Ciao for now until the next instalment in Cairo...
Tuesday, October 28, 2008
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