Border Crossings, Valley of Moses and The Rose Red City...

Listening to: Waves crashing against the shoreline

We've just returned from Jordan and WOW!! I lost count on how many border controls and crossings we took to overland and get there - but was it worth it or what? Somewhat disappointed that we didn't have time to return to Israel and revisit the great country I once lived in - maybe next time...

Anyway, finally arrived in Aqaba and took the two hour journey to Wadi Musa (Valley of Moses) and then on to one of the 'new seven wonders of the world Petra aka 'Rose-Red City'. The Nabateans (desert tribes) sculpted this amazing city hidden from the rest of the world from towering rock walls of multi-coloured sandstone. This ancient city is found via the Siq a canyon-like passageway of amazing rock and while the Treasury, Petra's most famous monument is where most people stand in awe, I have to say the Siq was pretty damn impressive all by itself. Don't get me wrong the first glimpse of the Treasury is very impressive and amazing but the Siq was particularly special. The colours in the rock, how the light played with shadow and colour and because we were fortunate enough to spend most of the half hour walk it took us (too many photo stops) we had it pretty much to ourselves which made it even more special. The magick of the silence, or the echoing of voices up ahead, or the galloping of horses hooves from behind as horse and carriage came tumbling through the narrow canyon. Loved it, loved it, loved it!!

Once inside the site there is so much to see and do it's not possible to see all in one day. You are able to purchase a 1, 2 or 3 day pass - the latter is practically how many days you need to see everything provided you are fit. Since we only had one day to explore we stuck to the main sights: the royal tombs, street of facades, the roman style theatre, to name a few. We had the best day and our clothes full of Petra sandstone and dust were testament to a day of walking, climbing and exploring Petras' ancient city.

Jordan was an unplanned spur of the moment excursion and what an adventure and lovely surprise it turned out to be. There is sooooo' much to see and do in Jordan, three days is nowhere enough time to explore this amazing country. We stayed in a very basic backpacker hostel in Wadi Musa but it felt more like a homestay as the hospitality of the owners exceeded anything I'd expect from any groovee, chilled out backpacker haunt. It was as though we were in their home - well I guess we were really, a home with a lot of bedrooms :) We were made so welcome and we had a traditional Jordanian meal cooked for all of us on the second night of our stay (about 12 all up) in the dining room followed by chatting and drinking tea in the living room with travellers from all over the globe - just fabulous!! Ooooh, did I mention how cold it was - very high up in the mountains - 1100m above sea level. So it's official I'm totally in love with the Middle East and its people and will return time and time again. Now, if only my books would sell...

On our return to Egypt we thought in our wisdom that we would treat ourselves to a semi-upmarket hotel in Nuweiba before returning to Dahab. When we finally made it off the ferry from Aqaba and through Immigration and bartered a reasonable price for cab to take us to chosen luxury we found it closed, desolate and empty!! It was like a ghost town, eerie, abandoned, dust collecting all over the place, tables turned upside down, pool empty and one lone security guard informing us that it was no more and to continue further up the road after we'd already wandered the empty corridors for at least ten minutes as it was all open to the world except for tourists. There were some hotels open for business but pretty dead - not much happening and very expensive for not much luxury. So in the end we concluded Bohemian, backpacker heaven of Dahab was the place to be and caught a mini bus back for the 1 1/2 hour drive as we'd long missed the last public bus back.

Aaah, home. It seriously feels like home, welcomed back by all the Bedouins with their happy, smiley faces and hugs - so warm and welcoming. What's not to love about this place? We're currently overlooking the turquoise waters of the Gulf of Aqaba which is pretty hard to beat from anywhere I've visited in the world including Australia!!

The days are coming to an end and while you read this post it's already Xmas day in Australia. It is Xmas Eve for us and tomorrow we will celebrate Xmas in the desert at a Wadi with the Bedouins!! How good is that?

Right now I feel very thankful to be part of this amazing culture and spending time with such beautiful people. There is a great sense of sadness too upon the imminent end to this journey. Boxing day is onwards to Cairo before our journey home...Might be my last post for awhile, so until then Merry Xmas and a Happy New Year to you all and may all things magickal come your way inshallah.

Midnight rambler wishing you Salaam Alaykum!!