Border Crossings, Valley of Moses and The Rose Red City...

Listening to: Waves crashing against the shoreline

We've just returned from Jordan and WOW!! I lost count on how many border controls and crossings we took to overland and get there - but was it worth it or what? Somewhat disappointed that we didn't have time to return to Israel and revisit the great country I once lived in - maybe next time...

Anyway, finally arrived in Aqaba and took the two hour journey to Wadi Musa (Valley of Moses) and then on to one of the 'new seven wonders of the world Petra aka 'Rose-Red City'. The Nabateans (desert tribes) sculpted this amazing city hidden from the rest of the world from towering rock walls of multi-coloured sandstone. This ancient city is found via the Siq a canyon-like passageway of amazing rock and while the Treasury, Petra's most famous monument is where most people stand in awe, I have to say the Siq was pretty damn impressive all by itself. Don't get me wrong the first glimpse of the Treasury is very impressive and amazing but the Siq was particularly special. The colours in the rock, how the light played with shadow and colour and because we were fortunate enough to spend most of the half hour walk it took us (too many photo stops) we had it pretty much to ourselves which made it even more special. The magick of the silence, or the echoing of voices up ahead, or the galloping of horses hooves from behind as horse and carriage came tumbling through the narrow canyon. Loved it, loved it, loved it!!

Once inside the site there is so much to see and do it's not possible to see all in one day. You are able to purchase a 1, 2 or 3 day pass - the latter is practically how many days you need to see everything provided you are fit. Since we only had one day to explore we stuck to the main sights: the royal tombs, street of facades, the roman style theatre, to name a few. We had the best day and our clothes full of Petra sandstone and dust were testament to a day of walking, climbing and exploring Petras' ancient city.

Jordan was an unplanned spur of the moment excursion and what an adventure and lovely surprise it turned out to be. There is sooooo' much to see and do in Jordan, three days is nowhere enough time to explore this amazing country. We stayed in a very basic backpacker hostel in Wadi Musa but it felt more like a homestay as the hospitality of the owners exceeded anything I'd expect from any groovee, chilled out backpacker haunt. It was as though we were in their home - well I guess we were really, a home with a lot of bedrooms :) We were made so welcome and we had a traditional Jordanian meal cooked for all of us on the second night of our stay (about 12 all up) in the dining room followed by chatting and drinking tea in the living room with travellers from all over the globe - just fabulous!! Ooooh, did I mention how cold it was - very high up in the mountains - 1100m above sea level. So it's official I'm totally in love with the Middle East and its people and will return time and time again. Now, if only my books would sell...

On our return to Egypt we thought in our wisdom that we would treat ourselves to a semi-upmarket hotel in Nuweiba before returning to Dahab. When we finally made it off the ferry from Aqaba and through Immigration and bartered a reasonable price for cab to take us to chosen luxury we found it closed, desolate and empty!! It was like a ghost town, eerie, abandoned, dust collecting all over the place, tables turned upside down, pool empty and one lone security guard informing us that it was no more and to continue further up the road after we'd already wandered the empty corridors for at least ten minutes as it was all open to the world except for tourists. There were some hotels open for business but pretty dead - not much happening and very expensive for not much luxury. So in the end we concluded Bohemian, backpacker heaven of Dahab was the place to be and caught a mini bus back for the 1 1/2 hour drive as we'd long missed the last public bus back.

Aaah, home. It seriously feels like home, welcomed back by all the Bedouins with their happy, smiley faces and hugs - so warm and welcoming. What's not to love about this place? We're currently overlooking the turquoise waters of the Gulf of Aqaba which is pretty hard to beat from anywhere I've visited in the world including Australia!!

The days are coming to an end and while you read this post it's already Xmas day in Australia. It is Xmas Eve for us and tomorrow we will celebrate Xmas in the desert at a Wadi with the Bedouins!! How good is that?

Right now I feel very thankful to be part of this amazing culture and spending time with such beautiful people. There is a great sense of sadness too upon the imminent end to this journey. Boxing day is onwards to Cairo before our journey home...Might be my last post for awhile, so until then Merry Xmas and a Happy New Year to you all and may all things magickal come your way inshallah.

Midnight rambler wishing you Salaam Alaykum!!

Contemplation, Celebration & some of life's footprints...

Left: Crysta Right: Magicka

Listening to: Like Drawing Blood - Goyte

It feels like the rapid descent to the end of December which means the end of this awesome trip!! Lots of things to think about upon our return - priorities in life etc and how to go about making subtle or not so subtle changes to move into a more authentic life :)

Missing Mum, (no pix of Mum on me) Magicka & Crysta like crazy.

It must have something to do with being away (our first real OS holiday in ten years) and stopping. Having time to think, reflect, feel. How much of our life is lived on automatic pilot that we don't stop and find the stillness to just sit with thought - not necessarily grieve, but more remember and rejoice in their lives whether they are still with us or departed?

It's coming up to Mum's 10th anniversary on the 22nd of this month. It's been a surreal time for me as my subconcious has been playing tricks on me by giving me thought patterns about Mum in the present tense eg: Must tell Mum that when I get home, or Mum will laugh so hard when I tell her this... then the reality hits me. The crazy thing is I am all too well aware that she's not here doh, but for a nanosecond or two my mind tricks me into thinking it so - and the same goes for Magicka & Crysta. Has anyone else experienced this? Of course I miss Mitzi but in a different way as I know from regular reports from home that she is well and happy.

I'm glad we're spending Mum's anniversary and Xmas in Egypt - it's actually nice to be immersed in a completely different culture who don't celerbrate Christmas as we do. No jolly fat men in red suits,no Xmas trees or lights or decorations, no crazy last minute shopping to where you can't breathe from the suffocating crowds. It makes for a nice change :)

Seventeen years ago I spent Xmas in Israel which was amazing to experience the complete absence of it. This year will be in Egypt and besides some festivities from the Christian community, it will be very low key - a nice quiet reflective moment. As Mum was never fond of Xmas either, being in this part of the world at this time somehow brings my link to her even closer.

While I feel sad and contemplative, Iwill be rejoicing and celebrating the memory of Mum, and my kidz life in a magical setting. The Sinai. A rugged land of dry desert mountains that shifts and changes in colour by the rays of the morning and evening sun. A land known throughout history for its prophets and nomads. It is this I relate. It is this I know my mother relates which is possibly why I'm missing her so much. If I stop and listen hard enough I think I'll find I don't need to miss her as she's already here :)

Midnight rambler wishing you all Salaam alukum (peace be upon you)...

Celebrations and sadness...

Listening to: Bongos playing in the bazaar

We're celebrating Eid at the moment. All very festive and it may be about as festive we get here in Dahab which suits us just fine :) The place is booked out with locals from all over Egypt celebrating their Muslim holiday and feast - festival of sacrifice. While it's not something that appeals to me as a vegetarian the purpose and belief behind the practise is one of sharing, love and community. So this is a good thing and the spirit here is delightful.

We made a decision and cancelled Thailand. We have plans to explore the Sinai further and visit Petra in Jordan and perhaps revisit Israel. So Xmas it is, in the Middle East - we are looking forward to it being very low key and laid back. Just loving the pace of life here and my head spins thinking about the chaos of Xmas back home :)

Dave had a wonderful time out with the Bedouins but he says he won't be trading in Mickey (his horse) for a camel anytime soon as he had rather a sore bum and thighs LOL. He enjoyed the Oasis, the three pools and the hospitality of the Bedouins. He's been loving the snorkelling right next door to where we are staying at Eel garden and further afield the islands . I lie in the sun and relax. Snorkelling sounds like hard work LOL. He said the coral shelf is amazing with some fantastic fish, not to mention Moray eels, puffer fish, sea urchins which kinda freaked him out a little. Once he got past the coral shelf the whole thing drops away into the depths of the ocean opening up to live coral of all brilliant and spectacular colour with fishies and other things (all beings uncertain) hiding beneath the coral and ocean floor. Each time he goes out he returns with a huge grin on his face so he's loving it. Me...I'm still trying to get it but then I'm not a water baby.

I'm feeling sad today for we found out that 'Foxy lady' died three days ago. We were wondering where she was and I feared that something awful had happened. It indeed had. She was poisoned and by the time the Vet came it was too late. Apparently, this is the governments way of keeping the street dog numbers down except they don't bother to inform anyone so the pets end up being a target also. Apparently, quite a few dogs/pets died in the town also. It's just sooooo' sad. Foxy Lady (real name Nancy - well no, her name is the Arabic version of Nancy which I can't remember) was a gorgeous, lovely girl. She left behind several young pups who are being hand-reared by the Bedouin boys from Sheikh Salem House.

We have more to plan for the rest of our Middle Eastern trip so had better go and do some research.

Midnight rambler signing off - ma' salaama...

Sparkling ocean and clear skies...

Listening to: the sound of the ocean

Our Dahab days of clear water, sunny clear skies and smiling faces are coming to an end :( In hindsight I wished we'd booked for longer. Maybe we can still reschedule our flights - but Egypt Scare - oops I mean Air, is a little dodgy and never seems to have vacant seats but we can try. Still waiting to hear back from our travel agent to see if we can change our Thailand plans slightly, which would give us a bit more time for things to hopefully settle down. We feel that some of our days in Dahab have been wasted due to our concern with Thailand and looking at other options as it was only yesterday the airport cleared and we're still be warned by Australian officials not to go there, but the airlines or travel insurance don't quite see it that way...

Dave is off on a snorkelling and camel ride expedition into the Wadi's of the Sinai with a Bedouin guide, Ibrahim. He is expected to be gone all day and I'm very keen to catch up on all his adventures. I'm still full of the flu - that he gave me!! so am going to lie in the sun for awhile and read my book.

Oh, and there is this adorable dog that hangs out with us, I've nicknamed her 'Foxy lady' coz she has the face of a fox and she is ever sooooo' cute :)

Midnight rambler wandering off into the desertscape....

Uncertainty...

Listening to: A cat crying

With Thailand's civil unrest we are left wondering what to do? However, we are grateful that we are not currently caught up in it. We are pretty much wasting today trying to figure out where to go from here. Do we reschedule all flights? cancel them? stay here? Shit!! We are supposed to be in Bangkok next Tuesday and while it may all be over by then - what if it isn't and we are being advised by officials not to travel anywhere in Thailand. So...I'm off to look for a decent coffee in a cafe by the ocean in a sunny spot and ponder our dilemma...

Ciao